Innocenti Evasioni in Milan's Sempione district is Tommaso Arrigoni and Eros Picco's romantic garden-set dining room, opened 1998. The seasonal tasting menu and the
Signature dishes: Tortelli of caciotta, Pigeon breast, Tasting menu
Must order: The tortelli of caciotta cheese, the pigeon breast and the seasonal tasting set.
Tip: Bookings open two weeks ahead. The garden tables in summer are the destination; book at least a fortnight in advance.
Address: Via Privata della Bindellina, 20155 Milano
Cittamani in Milan is Ritu Dalmia's modern Indian dining room near Brera, opened 2018. The Goan fish curry and the layered tasting set still define Milan's high-end
Signature: Goan fish curry, Butter chicken, Naan stuffed with paneer
Order: The Goan fish curry, the butter chicken and the stuffed paneer naan.
Tip: Bookings open two weeks ahead. The Sunday lunch tasting set with chai pairing is the editor's pick for first visits.
Wicky's in Milan's Centro Storico is chef Wicky Priyan's 12-seat omakase counter, opened 2009, the Sri Lankan-trained sushi master who put Italian fish on the Japane
Signature: Omakase sushi, Yellowtail crudo, Tempura
Order: The full omakase set at the counter; do not order off the carte.
Tip: Bookings open 30 days ahead and sell out within hours. Lunch omakase at 12:30 is cheaper than dinner; vegetarian option available with notice.
Contraste in Milan's Naviglio Pavese district is Matias Perdomo's Uruguayan-Italian modern kitchen, holding one Michelin star since 2017. The seafood-led tasting men
Signature: Sea urchin and parmesan, Risotto with razor clams, Tasting menu
Order: The carte blanche tasting set at 130 euros; the sea urchin with parmesan is the signature.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The chef's counter at the open kitchen is the spot to ask for; vegetarian menu available.
Sadler in Milan's Naviglio Pavese is Claudio Sadler's modern Italian dining room since 1995, a one-Michelin-star kitchen that codified the city's tasting-menu tradit
Signature: Risotto with saffron and gold leaf, Beef tartare, Tasting menu
Order: The Sadler tasting set, the saffron risotto with gold leaf and the beef tartare.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The chef's pass at the open kitchen is the seat to ask for; book the 19:30 sitting for a slower service.
Don Giovanni in Milan's Porta Venezia is the Pugliese kitchen of the Quarta family, opened 1986 and a Milanese institution for southern Italian cooking.
Signature: Orecchiette con cime di rapa, Burrata pugliese, Tagliata di tonno
Order: The orecchiette con cime di rapa, the burrata pugliese and the tagliata di tonno.
Tip: Bookings open one week ahead by phone. The Pugliese wine list runs deep on Primitivo and Negroamaro producers.
Boeucc in Milan dates from 1696 and is the city's oldest dining room, now at Corso Monforte near the Quadrilatero. The Lombard canon at white linen still anchors the
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Cotoletta alla milanese, Tortelli di zucca
Order: Risotto alla milanese, the bone-in cotoletta, then tortelli di zucca from Mantua.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The dining room has the original Boeucc 18th-century vaulted ceiling; ask for a table in the main room.
