Italian€€€porta-venezia
Don Giovanni in Milan's Porta Venezia is the Pugliese kitchen of the Quarta family, opened 1986 and a Milanese institution for southern Italian cooking.
Signature: Orecchiette con cime di rapa, Burrata pugliese, Tagliata di tonno
Order: The orecchiette con cime di rapa, the burrata pugliese and the tagliata di tonno.
Tip: Bookings open one week ahead by phone. The Pugliese wine list runs deep on Primitivo and Negroamaro producers.
Lombard, Classical Italian€€€€centro-storico
Boeucc in Milan dates from 1696 and is the city's oldest dining room, now at Corso Monforte near the Quadrilatero. Located in Centro Storico.
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Cotoletta alla milanese, Tortelli di zucca
Order: Risotto alla milanese, the bone-in cotoletta, then tortelli di zucca from Mantua.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The dining room has the original Boeucc 18th-century vaulted ceiling; ask for a table in the main room.
Modern Italian, Plant-led€€€€centro-storico
Horto in Milan's Centro Storico is Norbert Niederkofler's rooftop kitchen atop The Medelan, a Michelin-star vegetable-led tasting room opened 2023.
Signature: Vegetable tasting menu, Risotto with herbs, Seasonal garden plates
Order: The vegetable tasting set at 150 euros; the herb risotto and the smoked-celery main are the signatures.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead on the website. The chef's counter overlooks the open kitchen; book the 20:00 first sitting.
Modern Italian, Fine Dining€€€€porta-nuova
Ristorante Berton in Milan's Porta Nuova district is Andrea Berton's one-Michelin-star kitchen, opened 2013. Kitchen leans modern italian, fine dining.
Signature: Risotto with bone marrow, Tasting menu, Signature broths
Order: The broth tasting set; the bone-marrow risotto is the signature primo.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The cellar tour with sommelier Tobia Sironi is the editor's pick add-on; book at booking time.
Italian€€€navigli
Erba Brusca in Milan's Naviglio Pavese is Alice Delcourt's garden-set kitchen, opened 2010 in a 19th-century farmstead on the canal. Priced at €€€.
Signature: Vegetable tasting, Tagliolini with herbs, Pigeon
Order: The seasonal vegetable plate, the tagliolini with garden herbs and the pigeon when on the carte.
Tip: Bookings open two weeks ahead. The garden tables in summer are the destination; book the Sunday lunch sitting at 13:00.
Italian€€€porta-romana
Trippa in Milan's Porta Romana is Diego Rossi's offal-led trattoria, opened 2015 with cucina povera reimagined. Kitchen leans modern italian, offal.
Signature: Vitello tonnato, Trippa alla fiorentina, Mondeghili
Order: The vitello tonnato, the trippa alla fiorentina and the mondeghili Milanese meatballs.
Tip: Bookings open 60 days ahead on the website; sells out within hours. Walk-up bar seats open at 19:30 for early birds.