Japanese, Sushi€€€€centro-storico
Wicky's in Milan's Centro Storico is chef Wicky Priyan's 12-seat omakase counter, opened 2009, the Sri Lankan-trained sushi master who put Italian fish.
Signature: Omakase sushi, Yellowtail crudo, Tempura
Order: The full omakase set at the counter; do not order off the carte.
Tip: Bookings open 30 days ahead and sell out within hours. Lunch omakase at 12:30 is cheaper than dinner; vegetarian option available with notice.
Modern Italian, Fine Dining€€€€navigli
Contraste in Milan's Naviglio Pavese district is Matias Perdomo's Uruguayan-Italian modern kitchen, holding one Michelin star since 2017. Priced at €€€€.
Signature: Sea urchin and parmesan, Risotto with razor clams, Tasting menu
Order: The carte blanche tasting set at 130 euros; the sea urchin with parmesan is the signature.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The chef's counter at the open kitchen is the spot to ask for; vegetarian menu available.
Modern Italian, Fine Dining€€€€navigli
Sadler in Milan's Naviglio Pavese is Claudio Sadler's modern Italian dining room since 1995, a one-Michelin-star kitchen that codified the city's gold-leaf.
Signature: Risotto with saffron and gold leaf, Beef tartare, Tasting menu
Order: The Sadler tasting set, the saffron risotto with gold leaf and the beef tartare.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The chef's pass at the open kitchen is the seat to ask for; book the 19:30 sitting for a slower service.
Italian€€€porta-venezia
Don Giovanni in Milan's Porta Venezia is the Pugliese kitchen of the Quarta family, opened 1986 and a Milanese institution for southern Italian cooking.
Signature: Orecchiette con cime di rapa, Burrata pugliese, Tagliata di tonno
Order: The orecchiette con cime di rapa, the burrata pugliese and the tagliata di tonno.
Tip: Bookings open one week ahead by phone. The Pugliese wine list runs deep on Primitivo and Negroamaro producers.
Lombard, Classical Italian€€€€centro-storico
Boeucc in Milan dates from 1696 and is the city's oldest dining room, now at Corso Monforte near the Quadrilatero. Located in Centro Storico.
Signature: Risotto alla milanese, Cotoletta alla milanese, Tortelli di zucca
Order: Risotto alla milanese, the bone-in cotoletta, then tortelli di zucca from Mantua.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead. The dining room has the original Boeucc 18th-century vaulted ceiling; ask for a table in the main room.
Modern Italian, Plant-led€€€€centro-storico
Horto in Milan's Centro Storico is Norbert Niederkofler's rooftop kitchen atop The Medelan, a Michelin-star vegetable-led tasting room opened 2023.
Signature: Vegetable tasting menu, Risotto with herbs, Seasonal garden plates
Order: The vegetable tasting set at 150 euros; the herb risotto and the smoked-celery main are the signatures.
Tip: Bookings open three weeks ahead on the website. The chef's counter overlooks the open kitchen; book the 20:00 first sitting.