Italian€€€Marina
Antica Hostaria on Via Cavour is the old-school Cagliari osteria of the Marina, dark wood and a fish-led list of Sardinian classics under Antonio Mura.
Order: Fregula con arselle, or the baked capon with artichokes and potatoes.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The room started as a mid-nineteenth-century inn and the kitchen still leans on the fish list rather than the printed classics.
Modern European€€€Villanova
Old Friend in Cagliari is Dario Torabi's Villanova bistrot, where offal, spice and BBQ oysters are plated for people who came out to be surprised.
Order: BBQ oysters, then the herb-cured mullet.
Tip: Torabi opened the place in 2016 and moved it to Via Abba; dinner only, and the menu changes with what the boats and gardens bring.
Italian€€VillanovaMon-Sun 13:00-15:00; Mon-Sat 20:00-23:00
La Locanda dei Buoni e Cattivi in Cagliari is a villa restaurant and guest house that trains young staff, cooking seasonal organic Sardinian plates.
Order: Sunday's Sa Picchettada buffet lunch.
Tip: Weekday lunch runs a fixed-price menu alongside the carte; the garden and terrace are the reason to book ahead in spring.
Seafood€€MarinaTue-Sat 12:30-15:00, 20:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-15:00
Trattoria Lillicu has fed the Marina from Via Sardegna for generations, marble tables, no printed menu, and whatever the Cagliari boats landed that morning.
Order: Spaghetti with arselle clams and bottarga.
Tip: Do not ask for a menu, the waiter recites the catch; arrive by 13:00 or after 14:00 to miss the queue. Monday the trattoria stays shut.
Italian€€StampaceDaily 12:30-15:30, 19:30-23:00
Sa Domu Sarda on Via Sassari is the Cagliari address for cucina regionale di terra, the inland Sardinian side of the island rather than the harbour.
Order: Whatever the inland menu is running that day.
Tip: Book for dinner, the two plain rooms fill with locals; the kitchen runs straight through from 12:30 and again from 19:30, seven days a week.
Italian€€MarinaDaily 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:59
Su Cumbidu on Via Napoli feeds the Marina fixed-price Sardinian menus under brick arches, culurgiones and seadas at prices Cagliari students accept.
Order: Culurgiones, potato and mint, in tomato sauce.
Tip: The set menus are the value play at around €20 to 30; go early, because groups book out the arched back room.