Seafood€€MarinaTue-Sat 12:30-15:00, 20:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-15:00
Trattoria Lillicu has fed the Marina from Via Sardegna for generations, marble tables, no printed menu, and whatever the Cagliari boats landed that morning.
Order: Spaghetti with arselle clams and bottarga.
Tip: Do not ask for a menu, the waiter recites the catch; arrive by 13:00 or after 14:00 to miss the queue. Monday the trattoria stays shut.
Italian€€StampaceDaily 12:30-15:30, 19:30-23:00
Sa Domu Sarda on Via Sassari is the Cagliari address for cucina regionale di terra, the inland Sardinian side of the island rather than the harbour.
Order: Whatever the inland menu is running that day.
Tip: Book for dinner, the two plain rooms fill with locals; the kitchen runs straight through from 12:30 and again from 19:30, seven days a week.
Italian€€MarinaDaily 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:59
Su Cumbidu on Via Napoli feeds the Marina fixed-price Sardinian menus under brick arches, culurgiones and seadas at prices Cagliari students accept.
Order: Culurgiones, potato and mint, in tomato sauce.
Tip: The set menus are the value play at around €20 to 30; go early, because groups book out the arched back room.
Seafood€€MarinaMon-Sat 13:00-15:00, 20:00-23:00
Stella Marina di Montecristo works the far end of Via Sardegna in Cagliari, sixty covers of maritime kit and fish bought fresh that morning.
Order: Whatever came off the boats that morning, cooked simply.
Tip: It shuts for a variable stretch in August, and the sixty covers go fast in summer, so call the mobile number to hold a table.
Seafood€€MarinaDaily 12:30-15:30, 19:00-23:59
Sa Schironada on Via Baylle runs long hours for the Marina in Cagliari, Sardinian fish and roast plates and a crisp fritto misto from the Gulf.
Order: Zuppa di cozze with pane carasau, then seadas.
Tip: Open every day and late, which makes it the fallback when the smaller trattorias in the Marina have shut their kitchens.
Seafood€€MarinaMon-Tue 12:00-15:00, 19:45-22:45; Thu-Sun 12:00-15:00, 19:45-22:45
Trattoria da Serafino works a corner of Via Lepanto in Cagliari, an air-conditioned room of local fish plates and a back room for long lunches.
Order: Whatever local fish is on the board that day.
Tip: Closed Wednesday; the private back room takes the business lunches, so the front fills with regulars.