Day-by-day eating plans for Cagliari. weekend classics, family routes, vegan plans, on-a-budget editions.
Day-by-day plans
Cagliari weekend: fregola, carasau and the Marina ★ 4.7
Two days built around the plates Cagliari does better than anywhere else: clams and bottarga on Via Sardegna, pane carasau on Via Azuni, inland meat on Via Sassari, and a sunset drink on the Castello ramparts.
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Day 1: Saturday: market morning, Marina trattoria, Castello sunset
- Morning
- Start at the Mercato Civico di Santa Chiara above Piazza Yenne, the oldest of the civic markets, open to 15:00 on Saturday, then walk down Largo Carlo Felice into the Marina.
- Afternoon
- Lunch at Trattoria Lillicu on Via Sardegna. No menu, so let the waiter recite the catch and order the spaghetti with arselle clams and bottarga.
- Evening
- Aperitivo on the ramparts at Libarium Nostrum on Via Santa Croce, then dinner at Josto on Via Sassari for Pierluigi Fais's modern Sardinian cooking.
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Day 2: Sunday: carasau lunch and inland meat
- Morning
- Coffee and a pastry at Antico Caffe on Piazza Costituzione, trading since 1838, then walk up the Bastione and into Castello.
- Afternoon
- Lunch at Panefratteria on Via Azuni: pane frattau, the carasau stack with tomato, pecorino and a poached egg.
- Evening
- Dinner at Sa Domu Sarda on Via Sassari for the inland side of the island, the meat and pasta cooking of the interior.
Cagliari on a budget: a day of cheap plates ★ 4.3
A day of Cagliari eating that stays cheap without going near a tourist menu: bakery pizzetta below the Bastione, a fixed-price Sardinian lunch on Via Napoli, pizza on Piazzetta Savoia and a late kitchen on Via Oristano.
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Day 1: Bakery breakfast to a 05:00 kitchen
- Morning
- Breakfast at Ditrizio Pasticceria on Via Crispi, below the Bastione, from 07:00 any day but Monday: a pizzetta sfoglia and a cappuccino for the price of a coffee elsewhere.
- Afternoon
- Lunch at Su Cumbidu on Via Napoli, where the set Sardinian menus run around €20 to 30 and the kitchen sends out culurgiones and seadas, then a walk down to the Marina.
- Evening
- Dinner at Impasto on Piazzetta Savoia for pizza and fresh pasta, with Francis Drake on Via Oristano as the fallback if the night runs past midnight.