Modern Irish€€€portobelloTue-Sat 17:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 12:30-14:30, Sun-Mon closed
Delahunt on Camden Street in Dublin, Darren Free's modern Irish dining room with head chef Dermot Staunton inside a restored Joycean grocer.
Signature: Squab pigeon, Atlantic hake, Apple tarte fine
Order: The squab pigeon course and a glass of natural Riesling from the wine list.
Tip: Friday and Saturday book three weeks ahead. The upstairs bar serves the full menu and is the walk-up option.
Modern Irish€€south-city-centreMon-Sat 12:00-14:45 17:30-22:00, Sun closed
The Pig's Ear on Nassau Street in Dublin, Stephen McAllister's modern Irish room on three floors overlooking Trinity College, the city's reliable mid-tier.
Signature: Crispy pork belly, Shepherd's pie, Irish coffee soufflé
Order: Shepherd's pie at lunch with a glass of red; Irish coffee soufflé to finish.
Tip: First-floor window seats face Trinity's playing fields. The set lunch at €30 for three courses is the value play.
Irish€€north-inner-cityWed-Sun 12:00-15:00, Sun-Wed 17:30-21:00, Thu-Sat 17:30-22:00
The Winding Stair on Ormond Quay in Dublin 1, Elaine Murphy's upstairs dining room above the bookshop overlooking the Ha'penny Bridge and the Liffey.
Signature: Smoked Burren salmon, Irish stew, Brown bread ice cream
Order: Smoked Burren salmon, then a bowl of Irish stew with brown bread.
Tip: Window seats face the Ha'penny Bridge; book three weeks ahead for the four river-view tables. Walk through the bookshop and up.
Irish€€temple-barMon-Sat 09:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00
Gallagher's Boxty House on Temple Bar in Dublin, Pádraic Óg Gallagher's three-room canon of boxty, coddle and smoked salmon, the boxty reference in town.
Signature: Boxty pancake, Dublin coddle, Smoked Irish salmon
Order: The boxty pancake stuffed with beef and Guinness, with a half pint of stout.
Tip: The middle dining room is the calm one; the front bar fills with traffic from Temple Bar Square after 19:00.
Steakhouse€€south-city-centreMon-Wed 12:00-15:00 17:00-22:00, Thu-Fri 12:00-15:00 17:00-23:00, Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-19:00
Featherblade on Dawson Street in Dublin, the small-plates steakhouse that built its room around the underused featherblade cut, the city's value steak.
Signature: Featherblade steak, Steak frites, Tallow flatbread
Order: Featherblade steak with frites and chimichurri; a side of the tallow flatbread.
Tip: Walk-in seats at the counter run fastest; the back banquette books out Friday and Saturday a week ahead.
Japanese Izakaya€€south-city-centreMon-Fri 09:00-17:00
Yamamori Izakaya on South Great George's Street in Dublin, the basement izakaya under the long-running ramen room, the city's most credible robata bar.
Signature: Robata-grilled mackerel, Karaage, Yakitori
Order: Robata-grilled mackerel, a round of yakitori, and the basket of karaage to share.
Tip: The basement runs late on weekends; the upstairs is the lunch room. Highballs at the back bar are €6 in happy hour.