Modern Irish€€€portobello
Delahunt on Camden Street in Dublin, Darren Free's modern Irish dining room with head chef Dermot Staunton inside a restored Joycean grocer, the canal-side anchor.
Signature: Squab pigeon, Atlantic hake, Apple tarte fine
Order: The squab pigeon course and a glass of natural Riesling from the wine list.
Tip: Friday and Saturday book three weeks ahead. The upstairs bar serves the full menu and is the walk-up option.
Modern Irish€€south-city-centre
The Pig's Ear on Nassau Street in Dublin, Stephen McAllister's modern Irish room on three floors overlooking Trinity College, the city's reliable mid-tier.
Signature: Crispy pork belly, Shepherd's pie, Irish coffee soufflé
Order: Shepherd's pie at lunch with a glass of red; Irish coffee soufflé to finish.
Tip: First-floor window seats face Trinity's playing fields. The set lunch at EUR 30 for three courses is the value play.
Irish€€north-inner-city
The Winding Stair on Ormond Quay in Dublin 1, Elaine Murphy's upstairs dining room above the bookshop overlooking the Ha'penny Bridge and the Liffey.
Signature: Smoked Burren salmon, Irish stew, Brown bread ice cream
Order: Smoked Burren salmon, then a bowl of Irish stew with brown bread.
Tip: Window seats face the Ha'penny Bridge; book three weeks ahead for the four river-view tables. Walk through the bookshop and up.
Irish€€temple-bar
Gallagher's Boxty House on Temple Bar in Dublin, Pádraic Óg Gallagher's three-room canon of boxty, coddle and smoked salmon, the boxty reference in town.
Signature: Boxty pancake, Dublin coddle, Smoked Irish salmon
Order: The boxty pancake stuffed with beef and Guinness, with a half pint of stout.
Tip: The middle dining room is the calm one; the front bar fills with traffic from Temple Bar Square after 19:00.
Steakhouse€€south-city-centre
Featherblade on Dawson Street in Dublin, the small-plates steakhouse that built its room around the underused featherblade cut, the city's value steak.
Signature: Featherblade steak, Steak frites, Tallow flatbread
Order: Featherblade steak with frites and chimichurri; a side of the tallow flatbread.
Tip: Walk-in seats at the counter run fastest; the back banquette books out Friday and Saturday a week ahead.
Japanese izakaya€€south-city-centre
Yamamori Izakaya on South Great George's Street in Dublin, the basement izakaya under the long-running ramen room, the city's most credible robata bar.
Signature: Robata-grilled mackerel, Karaage, Yakitori
Order: Robata-grilled mackerel, a round of yakitori, and the basket of karaage to share.
Tip: The basement runs late on weekends; the upstairs is the lunch room. Highballs at the back bar are EUR 6 in happy hour.