Cocktails, wine bars and dives: drinking in Dublin for grown-ups.
Cocktail bars, wine bars, dive bars and gastropubs: drinking in Dublin for grown-ups.
The Long Hall on South Great George's Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian saloon since 1881 with original mahogany and mirror back-bar, the city's best Guinness pour.
Signature drink: Guinness
Food: Bar snacks and toasties only
Tip: The bar runs the length of the room; sit on a stool in the back snug to watch the bar staff work. Cash and card.
Grogan's on South William Street in Dublin 2, the artist's pub since the 1970s, the city's reference for a creamy Guinness and a toasted-cheese-and-ham.
Signature drink: Guinness with a ham and cheese toastie
Food: Toasted cheese and ham toasties only
Tip: Cash and card. The front lounge fills with regulars; the back room is the conversation room. Toasties stop at 18:00.
The Cobblestone on King Street North in Smithfield, Dublin 7, Tom Mulligan's family trad music pub, the city's reference for an unplugged session of traditional music.
Signature drink: Guinness
Food: No food, drinks only
Tip: Nightly trad sessions from 19:00, free entry. The back room is the dedicated session bar; arrive 18:00 for a seat.
Peruke and Periwig on Dawson Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian-cabinet cocktail bar on three floors, the city's reference for a Dealer's Choice and a Manhattan.
Signature drink: Dealers Choice cocktail
Food: Bar snacks only
Tip: Three floors; the basement is the speakeasy room. Bookings essential Friday and Saturday; the ground-floor bar takes walk-ins.
The Bar With No Name above L'Gueuleton on Fade Street in Dublin 2, a hidden-entrance cocktail bar marked by a wooden snail, mismatched decaying furniture, fairy lights and an open fireplace.
Signature drink: House Negroni
Food: Tapas-style snacks
Tip: Look for the wooden snail beside L'Gueuleton; the entrance is unmarked. Walk-in for cocktails.
P. Mac's on Lower Stephen Street in Dublin 2, a candlelit craft-beer bar with twenty Irish and US taps, the southside's reference for an Irish craft IPA.
Signature drink: Whiplash IPA on tap
Food: Bar snacks; food trucks outside
Tip: Twenty taps weekly rotation; ask the bar for the Whiplash, DOT or Trouble Brewing pour. Cash and card.
The Stag's Head on Dame Court in Dublin 2, a Victorian pub since 1860 with original mahogany and a stained-glass roof, the city's archetypal Dublin pub interior.
Signature drink: Guinness with an Irish stew
Food: Irish pub menu, full kitchen
Tip: Two bars; the downstairs is the trad pub, the upstairs Parliament Hotel is the late bar. Irish stew at lunch is the value play.
Kehoe's on South Anne Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian pub of original mahogany snugs and an upstairs lounge that was once the publican's parlour, a classic Dublin pub.
Signature drink: Guinness
Food: Toasties only
Tip: Three rooms; the snugs sit four. The upstairs is the parlour room; ask the bar staff to point you up.
The International Bar on Wicklow Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian saloon and the city's longest-running comedy room, the basement Cellar Bar pours cocktails.
Signature drink: Old Fashioned
Food: Toasties; pizza upstairs
Tip: Three floors; basement cocktails, ground-floor bar, first-floor comedy nights from 21:00 most weeknights.
Davy Byrnes on Duke Street in Dublin 2, the moral pub since 1798, the Joycean Bloomsday stop for a Gorgonzola sandwich and a glass of Burgundy.
Signature drink: Burgundy with a Gorgonzola sandwich
Food: Irish seafood and pub plates
Tip: Bloomsday on 16 June fills before 11:00; the back room sits forty. Seafood plates run all day.
The Big Romance on Parnell Street in Dublin 1, an audiophile bar with twelve Irish and US craft taps, vinyl all night, the Northside's most considered late beer.
Signature drink: Daily craft beer pour
Food: Wood-fired pizza
Tip: Twelve taps and a serious vinyl system; the wood-fired pizza arrives until 23:00 Friday and Saturday.
The Palace Bar on Fleet Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian pub since 1843, the literary watering hole of the Irish Times pressroom, with a hundred-bottle whiskey list.
Signature drink: Irish whiskey neat
Food: Toasties only
Tip: Three rooms; the upstairs parlour is the whiskey room. Tasting flights of three for EUR 18 Tuesday and Wednesday.
The Brazen Head on Bridge Street Lower in Dublin 8, established 1198 as Ireland's oldest pub, the present 1754 coaching inn serves Irish stew and trad sessions nightly.
Signature drink: Guinness with an Irish stew
Food: Full Irish pub kitchen, food to 21:00
Tip: Food served until 21:00 daily; nightly trad music sessions from 21:00. The back snug holds eight; the courtyard runs summer only.
L. Mulligan Grocer on Stoneybatter in Dublin 7, the Northside gastropub of black pudding arancini, Irish seafood chowder and chicken Kiev, no Guinness, small-brewer beers only.
Signature drink: Irish craft beer (no Guinness)
Food: Modern Irish gastropub kitchen
Tip: Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. The Wednesday early dinner is the calm window; Sunday lunch books two weeks ahead online.
Vintage Cocktail Club on Crown Alley in Temple Bar, a first-floor cocktail room behind an unmarked door, the city's most serious pre-Prohibition cocktail list.
Signature drink: Pre-Prohibition classics
Food: Cheese boards and bar plates
Tip: Ring the bell, walk up the stairs. Bookings essential; the room is two seatings per night Thursday to Saturday.
Peak food season in Dublin is year-round.
Local dining hours: lunch around 12:30, dinner from 19:30.
service is typically included; small extra is welcome but not expected.
Ask the next local you meet what they would order. Dublin rewards trust.