The Palace Bar on Fleet Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian pub since 1843, the literary watering hole of the Irish Times pressroom, with a hundred-bottle whiskey list.
Food program: Toasties only
Tip: Three rooms; the upstairs parlour is the whiskey room. Tasting flights of three for EUR 18 Tuesday and Wednesday.
Address: 21 Fleet Street, Dublin 2, D02 H950
Vintage Cocktail Club on Crown Alley in Temple Bar, a first-floor cocktail room behind an unmarked door, the city's most serious pre-Prohibition cocktail list.
Signature drink: Pre-Prohibition classics
Food: Cheese boards and bar plates
Tip: Ring the bell, walk up the stairs. Bookings essential; the room is two seatings per night Thursday to Saturday.
The Brazen Head on Bridge Street Lower in Dublin 8, established 1198 as Ireland's oldest pub, the present 1754 coaching inn serves Irish stew and trad sessions nightly.
Signature drink: Guinness with an Irish stew
Food: Full Irish pub kitchen, food to 21:00
Tip: Food served until 21:00 daily; nightly trad music sessions from 21:00. The back snug holds eight; the courtyard runs summer only.
L. Mulligan Grocer on Stoneybatter in Dublin 7, the Northside gastropub of black pudding arancini, Irish seafood chowder and chicken Kiev, no Guinness, small-brewer beers only.
Signature drink: Irish craft beer (no Guinness)
Food: Modern Irish gastropub kitchen
Tip: Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. The Wednesday early dinner is the calm window; Sunday lunch books two weeks ahead online.
Vintage Cocktail Club on Crown Alley in Temple Bar, a first-floor cocktail room behind an unmarked door, the city's most serious pre-Prohibition cocktail list.
Signature drink: Pre-Prohibition classics
Food: Cheese boards and bar plates
Tip: Ring the bell, walk up the stairs. Bookings essential; the room is two seatings per night Thursday to Saturday.
The Long Hall on South Great George's Street in Dublin 2, a Victorian saloon since 1881 with original mahogany and mirror back-bar, the city's best Guinness pour.
Signature drink: Guinness
Food: Bar snacks and toasties only
Tip: The bar runs the length of the room; sit on a stool in the back snug to watch the bar staff work. Cash and card.
Grogan's on South William Street in Dublin 2, the artist's pub since the 1970s, the city's reference for a creamy Guinness and a toasted-cheese-and-ham.
Signature drink: Guinness with a ham and cheese toastie
Food: Toasted cheese and ham toasties only
Tip: Cash and card. The front lounge fills with regulars; the back room is the conversation room. Toasties stop at 18:00.
The Cobblestone on King Street North in Smithfield, Dublin 7, Tom Mulligan's family trad music pub, the city's reference for an unplugged session of traditional music.
Signature drink: Guinness
Food: No food, drinks only
Tip: Nightly trad sessions from 19:00, free entry. The back room is the dedicated session bar; arrive 18:00 for a seat.
