Karavitis in Pangrati has cooked the Athens taverna canon since 1926, a rustic room with a courtyard, barrels of house wine and the bekri-meze stew.
Signature dishes: Bekri meze, Stuffed vine leaves, Lamb chops
Must order: The bekri meze stew with stuffed vine leaves and a carafe of the house red.
Tip: No reservations are taken; arrive before 21:00 weeknights and before 20:30 on Friday and Saturday.
Address: Pausaniou 4 Pangrati, Athina 11635, Greece, Athens
Klimataria on Theatre Square has poured Athens taverna food since 1927, a Psyrri institution where rebetiko plays live on most evenings from around 22:00.
Signature: Gigandes plaki, Slow-cooked lamb, Stuffed tomatoes
Order: Gigandes plaki, slow-cooked lamb and a half-kilo of the house red from the barrels.
Tip: Live music runs most evenings from around 22:00; book a fortnight ahead for the weekend.
Athinaikon on Themistokleous is the Exarchia ouzeri of record in Athens, opened in 1932 and moved to its current corner in 1989 with vintage decor intact.
Signature: Shrimp saganaki, Marides, Aubergine in oil
Order: The shrimp saganaki, a plate of marides and a carafe of tsipouro from Tyrnavos.
Tip: The Mitropoleos sister room is the modern outpost; the Themistokleous original is the destination.
Taverna tou Oikonomou in Ano Petralona is the Athens mageirio that has cooked home-style food since 1930, with 15 to 20 daily dishes from the pan.
Signature: Daily stew, Stuffed peppers, Pastitsio
Order: Ask what came out of the pan today; the daily stew with a glass of the house red.
Tip: No microwave and no menu; you point at the trays. Closes when pans empty out, often by 22:00.
Diporto on Sokratous and Theatrou has poured Attic retsina from barrels in Athens since 1887, a basement koutouki with no sign and a handful of daily dishes.
Signature: Revithia, Sardines, Greek salad
Order: The revithia chickpea stew, sardines and a small glass of retsina from the barrel.
Tip: Lunch only from late morning until the pans empty, often by 17:00; no menu, no English spoken.
Taverna Saita on Kydathineon is the rare Plaka room in Athens cooking for locals. The Zacharopoulou family has fried bakaliaros skordalia here since 1970.
Signature: Bakaliaros skordalia, Grilled lamb chops, Stuffed aubergine
Order: Bakaliaros skordalia, lamb chops and the grilled feta with the Byzantine-courtyard view.
Tip: Pavement tables face the quiet end of Kydathineon, away from souvenir shops; book a fortnight ahead.
Taverna Platanos under the plane tree on Diogenous has fed Plaka in Athens since 1932, a courtyard room where slow-cooked lamb in lemon sauce is the order.
Signature: Lamb in lemon sauce, Stuffed cabbage rolls, Horiatiki
Order: Lamb in lemon sauce, stuffed cabbage rolls and a glass of retsina under the plane tree.
Tip: The courtyard opens late spring; book ten days ahead for the Friday and Saturday warm-weather seatings.
