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OuzeriExarchia
Athinaikon on Themistokleous is the Exarchia ouzeri of record in Athens, opened in 1932 and moved to its current corner in 1989 with vintage decor intact.
OrderThe shrimp saganaki, a plate of marides and a carafe of tsipouro from Tyrnavos.
TipThe Mitropoleos sister room is the modern outpost; the Themistokleous original is the destination.
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Athenian MageirioPetralona
Taverna tou Oikonomou in Ano Petralona is the Athens mageirio that has cooked home-style food since 1930, with 15 to 20 daily dishes from the pan.
OrderAsk what came out of the pan today; the daily stew with a glass of the house red.
TipNo microwave and no menu; you point at the trays. Closes when pans empty out, often by 22:00.
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Basement KoutoukiPsyrri
Diporto on Sokratous and Theatrou has poured Attic retsina from barrels in Athens since 1887, a basement koutouki with no sign and a handful of daily dishes.
OrderThe revithia chickpea stew, sardines and a small glass of retsina from the barrel.
TipLunch only from late morning until the pans empty, often by 17:00; no menu, no English spoken.
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Greek TavernaPlaka
Taverna Saita on Kydathineon is the rare Plaka room in Athens cooking for locals. The Zacharopoulou family has fried bakaliaros skordalia here since 1970.
OrderBakaliaros skordalia, lamb chops and the grilled feta with the Byzantine-courtyard view.
TipPavement tables face the quiet end of Kydathineon, away from souvenir shops; book a fortnight ahead.
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Plaka TavernaPlaka
Taverna Platanos under the plane tree on Diogenous has fed Plaka in Athens since 1932, a courtyard room where slow-cooked lamb in lemon sauce is the order.
OrderLamb in lemon sauce, stuffed cabbage rolls and a glass of retsina under the plane tree.
TipThe courtyard opens late spring; book ten days ahead for the Friday and Saturday warm-weather seatings.
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GreekMonastiraki
Bairaktaris on Monastiraki Square is the tourist-targeted Athens institution. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans souvlaki and taverna. At Pl. Monastirakiou 5.
OrderA pork souvlaki pita with extra tzatziki and a glass of the house retsina.
TipThe square seating is the experience; the rooms behind serve a longer menu and live guitar music.