Karavitis in Pangrati has cooked Athens taverna food since 1926, a rustic courtyard with barrels of house wine and the bekri-meze stew that defines the room.
Signature dishes: Bekri meze, Stuffed vine leaves, Lamb chops
Must order: The bekri meze stew with stuffed vine leaves and a carafe of the house red.
Tip: No reservations are taken; arrive before 21:00 on weeknights and before 20:30 on Saturdays.
Address: Pausaniou 4 Pangrati, Athina 11635, Greece, Athens
Klimataria on Theatre Square in Athens has poured taverna food since 1927, the Psyrri institution where giant barrels line the wall and rebetiko plays most evenings.
Signature: Gigandes plaki, Slow-cooked lamb, Stuffed tomatoes
Order: Gigandes plaki, slow-cooked lamb and a half-kilo of the house red from the barrels.
Tip: Live music runs most evenings from around 22:00; book a fortnight ahead for the weekend.
Diporto on Sokratous and Theatrou has poured Attic retsina from barrels since 1887, a basement koutouki in Athens with no sign and a handful of daily-changing dishes.
Signature: Revithia, Sardines, Greek salad
Order: Revithia chickpea stew, sardines and a small glass of retsina from the barrel.
Tip: Lunch only from late morning until the pans empty, often by 17:00; no menu, no English spoken.
Taverna tou Oikonomou in Ano Petralona is the Athens mageirio that has cooked home-style food since 1930, with 15 to 20 daily dishes brought out of the pan.
Signature: Daily stew, Stuffed peppers, Pastitsio
Order: Ask what came out of the pan today; the daily stew with a glass of the house red.
Tip: No microwave and no menu; you point at the trays. Closes when the pans run out, often by 22:00.
Athinaikon on Themistokleous is the Exarchia ouzeri of record in Athens, an institution opened in 1932 that moved to its current corner in 1989 with vintage decor.
Signature: Shrimp saganaki, Marides, Aubergine in oil
Order: The shrimp saganaki, a plate of marides and a carafe of tsipouro from Tyrnavos.
Tip: The Mitropoleos sister room is the modern outpost; the Themistokleous original is the destination.
Taverna Saita on Kydathineon is the rare Plaka room in Athens cooking for locals. The Zacharopoulou family has fried bakaliaros skordalia since 1970.
Signature: Bakaliaros skordalia, Lamb chops, Stuffed aubergine
Order: Bakaliaros skordalia, lamb chops and the grilled feta with the Byzantine-courtyard view.
Tip: Pavement tables face the quiet end of Kydathineon, away from souvenir shops; book ahead.
Manimani in Koukaki cooks the food of the Mani peninsula in a neoclassical building near the Acropolis Museum in Athens: cured pork siglino and handmade pasta.
Signature: Siglino, Sausage from Mani, Handmade Mani pasta
Order: The siglino with handmade pasta and a half-litre of the rosé from the Peloponnese.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Sunday lunch from 14:00 is the easiest service to find a window seat.
