Greek Taverna With Live Music€€psyrriDaily 12:00-00:30
Klimataria on Theatre Square in Athens has poured taverna food since 1927, the Psyrri institution where giant barrels line the wall and rebetiko plays most.
Signature: Gigandes plaki, Slow-cooked lamb, Stuffed tomatoes
Order: Gigandes plaki, slow-cooked lamb and a half-kilo of the house red from the barrels.
Tip: Live music runs most evenings from around 22:00; book a fortnight ahead for the weekend.
Basement Koutouki€psyrriMon-Sat 08:00-19:00
Diporto on Sokratous and Theatrou has poured Attic retsina from barrels since 1887, a basement koutouki in Athens with no sign and a handful.
Signature: Revithia, Sardines, Greek salad
Order: Revithia chickpea stew, sardines and a small glass of retsina from the barrel.
Tip: Lunch only from late morning until the pans empty, often by 17:00; no menu, no English spoken.
Athenian Mageirio€petralonaMon-Fri 19:00-01:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-00:00
Taverna tou Oikonomou in Ano Petralona is the Athens mageirio that has cooked home-style food since 1930, with 15 to 20 daily dishes brought out of the pan.
Signature: Daily stew, Stuffed peppers, Pastitsio
Order: Ask what came out of the pan today; the daily stew with a glass of the house red.
Tip: No microwave and no menu; you point at the trays. Closes when the pans run out, often by 22:00.
Ouzeri€€exarchiaMon-Sat 11:30-00:30
Athinaikon on Themistokleous is the Exarchia ouzeri of record in Athens, an institution opened in 1932 that moved to its current corner in 1989 with vintage.
Signature: Shrimp saganaki, Marides, Aubergine in oil
Order: The shrimp saganaki, a plate of marides and a carafe of tsipouro from Tyrnavos.
Tip: The Mitropoleos sister room is the modern outpost; the Themistokleous original is the destination.
Plaka Taverna€€plakaDaily 12:00-00:00
Taverna Saita on Kydathineon is the rare Plaka room in Athens cooking for locals. The Zacharopoulou family has fried bakaliaros skordalia since 1970.
Signature: Bakaliaros skordalia, Lamb chops, Stuffed aubergine
Order: Bakaliaros skordalia, lamb chops and the grilled feta with the Byzantine-courtyard view.
Tip: Pavement tables face the quiet end of Kydathineon, away from souvenir shops; book ahead.
Mani Peninsula Greek€€koukakiDaily 14:00-23:00
Manimani in Koukaki cooks the food of the Mani peninsula in a neoclassical building near the Acropolis Museum in Athens: cured pork siglino and handmade.
Signature: Siglino, Sausage from Mani, Handmade Mani pasta
Order: The siglino with handmade pasta and a half-litre of the rosé from the Peloponnese.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Sunday lunch from 14:00 is the easiest service to find a window seat.