Modern Greek€€syntagma-historic-centre
Tzitzikas kai Mermigas on Mitropoleos in Athens has cooked Greek small plates with seasonal ingredients off Syntagma Square for three decades.
Signature: Keftedakia, Kayianas allios, Greek salad
Order: The keftedakia and the kayianas allios with a glass of the house assyrtiko.
Tip: Lunch from 13:00 is the easier seating; book three days ahead for Friday and Saturday dinner.
Greek Seafood€€psyrri
Atlantikos in Psyrri Athens is the central seafood pick: Avliton 7 fires the daily catch on the grill from lunch through to past midnight every day.
Signature: Grilled octopus, Sea bream carpaccio, Fried calamari
Order: The grilled octopus, sea bream carpaccio and a chilled assyrtiko by the glass.
Tip: The annex across the lane opens at 18:00 weekdays and 13:00 weekends; book the original room.
Plaka Taverna€€plaka
Taverna Platanos under the plane tree on Diogenous in Plaka Athens has fed the quarter since 1932, a courtyard room where slow-cooked lamb in lemon sauce.
Signature: Lamb in lemon sauce, Stuffed cabbage rolls, Horiatiki
Order: Lamb in lemon sauce, stuffed cabbage rolls and a glass of retsina under the plane tree.
Tip: The courtyard opens late spring; book ten days ahead for the Friday or Saturday seatings.
Athenian Taverna€pangratiDaily 13:30-01:00
Karavitis in Pangrati has cooked Athens taverna food since 1926, a rustic courtyard with barrels of house wine and the bekri-meze stew that defines the room.
Signature: Bekri meze, Stuffed vine leaves, Lamb chops
Order: The bekri meze stew with stuffed vine leaves and a carafe of the house red.
Tip: No reservations are taken; arrive before 21:00 on weeknights and before 20:30 on Saturdays.
Greek Taverna With Live Music€€psyrriDaily 12:00-00:30
Klimataria on Theatre Square in Athens has poured taverna food since 1927, the Psyrri institution where giant barrels line the wall and rebetiko plays most.
Signature: Gigandes plaki, Slow-cooked lamb, Stuffed tomatoes
Order: Gigandes plaki, slow-cooked lamb and a half-kilo of the house red from the barrels.
Tip: Live music runs most evenings from around 22:00; book a fortnight ahead for the weekend.
Basement Koutouki€psyrriMon-Sat 08:00-19:00
Diporto on Sokratous and Theatrou has poured Attic retsina from barrels since 1887, a basement koutouki in Athens with no sign and a handful.
Signature: Revithia, Sardines, Greek salad
Order: Revithia chickpea stew, sardines and a small glass of retsina from the barrel.
Tip: Lunch only from late morning until the pans empty, often by 17:00; no menu, no English spoken.