Maximilian Lorenz's take on Rhenish Sauerbraten: dry-aged venison, marinated and braised the classic way, with toasted pumpernickel crumbs and pickled raisins.

The Michelin Guide singles out Maximilian Lorenz's Sauerbraten as a prime example of its set menu, which combines the modern and the traditional: dry-aged venison, marinated and braised the classic way, pulled and enriched with a touch of braising jus, then finished with toasted pumpernickel breadcrumbs and pickled raisins. The restaurant on Johannisstrasse holds one Michelin star, and the set menu also exists in a vegetarian version.

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Make it at home

Serves 4P5DAdvanced

Ingredients

  • 800g aged beef topside in one piece (or venison haunch for autumn)
  • For the marinade: 400ml red wine vinegar
  • 600ml dry Spätburgunder red wine
  • 2 onions
  • 2 carrots
  • 6 juniper berries
  • 4 cloves
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 1 tablespoon mustard seeds
  • 8 black peppercorns
  • 60g clarified butter
  • 150g good Rhenish Lebkuchen, finely crumbled
  • 50g dark raisins soaked in 50ml port
  • 1 tablespoon dark muscovado sugar
  • Salt and black pepper
  • For the celeriac puree: 600g celeriac, 200ml whole milk, 100g unsalted butter, salt
  • For the dumplings: 800g floury potatoes, 1 egg, 80g potato starch, salt and nutmeg

Method

  1. Combine the marinade ingredients, submerge the beef, refrigerate 5 days turning daily.
  2. Lift the beef out, pat dry. Strain the marinade and reserve.
  3. Sear the beef on all sides in clarified butter in a heavy casserole over high heat.
  4. Pour in 600ml of the strained marinade. Cover and braise at 140C for 3 hours until a fork yields.
  5. For the dumplings: boil the potatoes 20 minutes, drain, peel and rice. Cool slightly, mix with egg, potato starch, salt and a grating of nutmeg. Shape into balls, drop into barely-simmering salted water and poach 12 minutes until they float.
  6. For the puree: dice the celeriac, simmer in the milk for 20 minutes until tender. Blend with the butter to a glossy puree, season.
  7. Lift the beef out, rest. Reduce the braising liquid by half, then stir in the Lebkuchen crumbs, port-soaked raisins and muscovado. Whisk to a glossy sauce.
  8. Slice the beef thinly across the grain. Plate with a smear of celeriac puree, two dumplings, three slices of beef and a generous ladle of sauce.

Editor tip. Reduce the braising liquid hard before adding the sauce elements, so that it glazes the meat instead of thickening.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy.