The Cathedral-side old town where Brauhäuser pack 500 guests a night, Rhine promenades invite Sunday strollers, and the Heumarkt square anchors centuries of Cologne street life.
Order Rheinischer Sauerbraten with Rübenkraut and potato dumplings, the canonical Cologne home dish
Haus Töller on Weyerstrasse in Cologne occupies a 14th-century building and serves Sauerbraten, Halve Hahn and pork knuckle in a genuinely historic Altstadt.
Order Himmel un Ääd: blood sausage with mashed potato and apple sauce, the most Cologne dish on the menu
Peters Brauhaus in Cologne's Altstadt serves hearty Rhenish brewery food alongside Peters Kölsch 350 metres from the Cathedral in a wood-panelled room.
Order Halve Hahn, the traditional rye roll with aged Gouda, alongside a freshly tapped Mühlen Kölsch
Brauerei zur Malzmühle on Cologne's Heumarkt has brewed Mühlen Kölsch since 1858 and once served Bill Clinton; consistently fresh pours in the Altstadt.
Order Rhenish Sauerbraten with raisin sauce and Kartoffelklösse, the defining Cologne Sunday dish
Gaffel am Dom occupies Cologne's main station forecourt, pouring Gaffel Kölsch from table taps opposite the Cathedral with Rhenish classics and Friday.
Order Halve Hahn with a Sion Kölsch; the Bratwurst with mustard and house bread is the reliable second choice
Brauhaus Sion in Cologne's Altstadt has served Kölsch at Unter Taschenmacher since 1318; lovingly renovated in 2012, one of Germany's most atmospheric.
Order Himmel un Ääd with Mettbrötchen to start; the Bratwurst platter for the table
Früh am Dom in Cologne is the second-largest brewery pub in Germany, steps from the Cathedral, seating 1,500 and pouring Früh Kölsch all day.
Order The seven-course menu pairing tikka masala with cauliflower alongside dakos with feta and olive
Sahila in Cologne's Altstadt-Süd holds one Michelin star for its pan-Asian tasting menu; intimate and one of Cologne's most personal fine dining rooms.
Order The six-course menu with wine pairing; the 4-course option at €121 is the more affordable entry point
taku in Cologne's Excelsior Hotel Ernst near the Cathedral holds one Michelin star for contemporary Asian cuisine; established and consistent fine dining.
Order Pappardelle with braised duck, the dish that has defined this room since the 1970s
Alfredo in Cologne's Altstadt is a Michelin-selected Italian restaurant near the Cathedral serving refined pasta and risotto in an intimate room.
Order The seasonal four-course tasting menu, strongest at lunch when the terrace catches the afternoon light
maiBeck in Cologne's Altstadt near the Frankenturm is a Michelin-selected room for creative German-European cooking; the terrace lunch is excellent in summer.
Order The three-part hummus platter with toppings, and the shakshuka
NENI Cologne in the 25hours Hotel serves Middle Eastern-inspired sharing plates above the city; Michelin-selected for its accessible elevated dining format.
Cafe Reichard on Unter Fettenhennen beneath Cologne's Cathedral towers is the city's most famous Konditorei, serving Kaffee und Kuchen since 1855.
Order Rhine-sourced fish of the day and a glass of Rheingau Riesling in the restored vaulted space
Wartesaal am Dom inside Cologne's main station serves Rhineland brasserie cooking at lunch and dinner in the grandly proportioned 1914 station waiting room.
Order Seasonal soup with house bread and a slice of the daily vegan cake
Little Green Kitchen on Unter Kahlenhausen in Cologne's Altstadt serves contemporary vegetarian and vegan food in a small, relaxed room; popular lunch spot.
Order Currywurst scharf with the house-made curry ketchup and a cone of fried potatoes
Pommes Imperivm at Heumarkt 59 in Cologne's Altstadt serves Currywurst mit Pommes from a compact counter; open until 03:00 on Friday and Saturday nights.
Order Vegan sushi rolls with roasted sesame and pickled ginger alongside the warming pho broth
Udum at Am Rinkenpfuhl in Cologne's Altstadt is a plant-based Vietnamese and Asian vegan cafe; bowls, vegan sushi rolls and warming pho broth, fully vegan.
Order Sauerbraten Kölner Art with raisin sauce, potato dumplings and braised red cabbage
Gildenhaus in Cologne's Altstadt near Alter Markt is a traditional Brauhaus in a guild hall building with Rhenish classics and Kölsch in a historic room.
Order Reibekuchen with apple sauce on the side, served hot from the fryer in a paper cone
Rievkoochbud at Vor Wieden in Cologne's Altstadt has fried thick, crispy Reibekuchen potato pancakes for over 60 years; the most famous kiosk.
Order Rührei mit Lachs, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, and a filter coffee
Café Eigel near Cologne's Cathedral on Domstrasse is one of the Altstadt's oldest independent cafes, serving filter coffee and Kuchen in a traditional room.
Cafe Reichard on Unter Fettenhennen beneath Cologne's Cathedral towers is the city's most famous Konditorei, serving Kaffee und Kuchen since 1855.
Cafe Eigel near Cologne's Cathedral on Domstrasse is one of the Altstadt's oldest independent cafes, serving filter coffee and Kuchen in a traditional room.
Starbucks at Domkloster in Cologne is the Cathedral-side branch with a large terrace directly opposite the Dom; the only Starbucks in Germany.
epi Boulangerie Patisserie on Breite Strasse near Cologne's Cathedral bakes Viennoiserie and croissants using French technique, with butter croissants.
Bastians at Auf dem Berlich in Cologne's Altstadt is one of the city centre's most reliable traditional bakeries, serving Mettbrötchen and rye breads.
Cafe Konditorei Fassbender on Schildergasse in Cologne's city centre is a traditional Konditorei serving Torte slices, Mohnkuchen and Kaffeekranz.
Also on this listRievkoochbud
HENNE.Weinbar on Pfeilstrasse near Cologne's Neumarkt is Michelin Guide-listed for its carefully selected natural and classic wine list by glass or bottle.
Monkey Bar in Cologne's Friesenviertel at Im Klapperhof mixes cocktails and hosts DJ nights; a reliable Belgian Quarter evening starting point.
Früh am Dom bar at Am Hof near Cologne's Cathedral pours Früh Kölsch from 08:00; the city's second-largest brewery pub with a terrace facing.
Brauerei Malzmühle bar at Heumarkt in Cologne's Altstadt pours Mühlen Kölsch in a traditional setting; less touristy than the Dom-adjacent Brauhäuser.
Also on this listGaffel am DomBrauhaus Sion
Pommes Imperivm at Heumarkt 59 in Cologne's Altstadt serves Currywurst mit Pommes from a late-night counter; open until 03:00 on Fridays and Saturdays.
Also on this listRievkoochbud
Brauerei zur Malzmühle at Heumarkt 6 in Cologne has brewed Mühlen Kölsch since 1858; the second-oldest brewery pub and one of the most consistent Altstadt.
Also on this listFruh am DomPeters BrauhausBrauhaus Sion
Wochenmarkt Deutz at Deutzer Freiheit runs every Friday 07:00-13:00 with regional produce, bread stalls and Reibekuchen from local vendors a short walk.
Cologne's seven Christmas markets run mid November to 23 December; the Roncalliplatz Cathedral market is the most spectacular with Reibekuchen and Glühwein.
Wochenmarkt Kalk in Cologne's Kalk neighbourhood runs Saturday 08:00-13:00 with a diverse multi-cultural mix of food stalls and fresh produce.
epi Boulangerie on Breite Strasse near Cologne's Cathedral serves a croissant and coffee for under €8; the best-value morning stop in the city centre.
Also on this listPommes Imperivm
On this list, shown aboveCafe ReichardmaiBeck
On this list, shown abovePommes Imperivm
Papa Joe's Jazzlokal Em Streckstrump in Cologne's Altstadt has played live swing and New Orleans jazz every night since 1974, with free admission.
Bar Botanik in Cologne's Wasserturm Hotel is a rooftop bar with panoramic views above the city and a botanical drinks menu, with lounge DJs in the evening.
Ex-Corner on Cologne's Schaafenstrasse is a cruisy, always-busy gay bar in the Bermuda Triangle, open nightly with a happy hour after 21:00.
Die Mumu on Schaafenstrasse in Cologne's gay Bermuda Triangle has run karaoke and DJ nights since opening in June 2008, open nearly every night.
Also on this listMonkey Bar Cologne
