History
The Michelin Guide singles out Maximilian Lorenz's Sauerbraten as a prime example of its set menu, which combines the modern and the traditional: dry-aged venison, marinated and braised the classic way, pulled and enriched with a touch of braising jus, then finished with toasted pumpernickel breadcrumbs and pickled raisins. The restaurant on Johannisstrasse holds one Michelin star, and the set menu also exists in a vegetarian version.
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Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 800g aged beef topside in one piece (or venison haunch for autumn)
- For the marinade: 400ml red wine vinegar
- 600ml dry Spätburgunder red wine
- 2 onions
- 2 carrots
- 6 juniper berries
- 4 cloves
- 4 bay leaves
- 1 tablespoon mustard seeds
- 8 black peppercorns
- 60g clarified butter
- 150g good Rhenish Lebkuchen, finely crumbled
- 50g dark raisins soaked in 50ml port
- 1 tablespoon dark muscovado sugar
- Salt and black pepper
- For the celeriac puree: 600g celeriac, 200ml whole milk, 100g unsalted butter, salt
- For the dumplings: 800g floury potatoes, 1 egg, 80g potato starch, salt and nutmeg
Method
- Combine the marinade ingredients, submerge the beef, refrigerate 5 days turning daily.
- Lift the beef out, pat dry. Strain the marinade and reserve.
- Sear the beef on all sides in clarified butter in a heavy casserole over high heat.
- Pour in 600ml of the strained marinade. Cover and braise at 140C for 3 hours until a fork yields.
- For the dumplings: boil the potatoes 20 minutes, drain, peel and rice. Cool slightly, mix with egg, potato starch, salt and a grating of nutmeg. Shape into balls, drop into barely-simmering salted water and poach 12 minutes until they float.
- For the puree: dice the celeriac, simmer in the milk for 20 minutes until tender. Blend with the butter to a glossy puree, season.
- Lift the beef out, rest. Reduce the braising liquid by half, then stir in the Lebkuchen crumbs, port-soaked raisins and muscovado. Whisk to a glossy sauce.
- Slice the beef thinly across the grain. Plate with a smear of celeriac puree, two dumplings, three slices of beef and a generous ladle of sauce.
Tip from the editors. Reduce the braising liquid hard before adding the sauce elements, so that it glazes the meat instead of thickening.
Where to eat rheinischer sauerbraten (fine-dining)
Rheinischer Sauerbraten (fine-dining) in Cologne
Maximilian Lorenz 1 ★ ★ 4.7
Maximilian Lorenz at Johannisstrasse 64 is a Michelin-starred restaurant from Cologne, open Tuesday to Saturday 18:00 to 22:00, with caterings and events.
TipVouchers can be redeemed in any of the group’s venues, including the Heinzhermann wine bar and the ML street kitchen.
More places near Maximilian Lorenz
Not on this list, but close by, nearest first. Every one is in our guide with its address, hours and what to order.
- Wartesaal am Dom Modern European, about 250 m away
- Gaffel am Dom Rhenisch, about 350 m away
- taku Asian fusion, about 400 m away
- maiBeck Modern Cuisine, about 450 m away
- Little Green Kitchen Vegan Cafe, about 500 m away
- Cafe Reichard Cafe, about 500 m away
More cities are in research. Want rheinischer sauerbraten (fine-dining) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.