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Modern EuropeanIndre By
Restaurant Pluto on Borgergade in Copenhagen has been the city's sharing-plate room since 2012, with a long bar menu running to 02:00 on Friday and Saturday.
OrderThe four small plates plus the off-menu burger; the kitchen lets you build the meal at the counter.
TipOpen seven days from 17:30; the bar takes walk-ups after 22:00 when the dining room slows.
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SeafoodIndre By
Beau Clugston's Iluka on Peder Skrams Gade in Copenhagen serves a sustainable-seafood menu from an open kitchen: raw plates, grilled fish, Limfjord oysters.
OrderThe chef's daily fish tasting plus a half-dozen Limfjord oysters with mignonette.
TipTuesday to Saturday dinner only. Counter seats face the open kitchen; ask when booking.
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Modern NordicVesterbro
Restaurant Cofoco on Abel Cathrines Gade in Vesterbro has run a value-priced four-course Nordic tasting since 2004, the original room behind the CofocoGroup.
OrderThe $275 four-course menu; the kitchen rotates with the season.
TipOpen daily from 17:30; one of the easier mid-priced bookings in the city.
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ItalianNorrebro
Christian Puglisi's Bæst on Guldbergsgade in Nørrebro pulls sourdough pizzas from a wood oven, cures its own charcuterie, makes mozzarella from Danish milk.
OrderThe Margherita with house mozzarella, plus a plate of charcuterie from the in-house salumeria.
TipReserve weekend evenings online. The 18:00 service is easier than the 20:00 turn.
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SicilianNorrebro
Mirabelle Spiserìa on Guldbergsgade in Nørrebro reopened the former Mirabelle bakery as an all-day Sicilian eatery from Christian Puglisi and the Bæst team.
OrderThe daily handmade pasta and a glass from the Sicilian-leaning natural wine list.
TipWalk-ins welcome at the counter; bookings via the website for groups of four or more.
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Japanese RamenIndre By
Slurp Ramen on Nansensgade in Copenhagen makes noodles from Bornholm wheat and rye, with a tonkotsu and shoyu menu by Austrian chef Philipp Inreiter.
OrderThe classic shoyu ramen with a side of gyoza; the noodles are made daily on site.
TipWalk-ins only and short queues outside; arrive at opening or after 20:00 for the shortest wait.