Modern European$$$indre-by
Restaurant Pluto on Borgergade in Copenhagen has been the city's sharing-plate room since 2012, with a long bar menu running to 02:00 on Friday and Saturday.
Signature: Sharing-style small plates, Pluto burger, Daily fish
Order: The four small plates plus the off-menu burger; the kitchen lets you build the meal at the counter.
Tip: Open seven days from 17:30; the bar takes walk-ups after 22:00 when the dining room slows.
Seafood$$$indre-by
Beau Clugston's Iluka on Peder Skrams Gade in Copenhagen serves a sustainable-seafood menu from an open kitchen: raw plates, grilled fish, Limfjord oysters.
Signature: Raw fish plates, Daily catch tasting, Oysters on ice
Order: The chef's daily fish tasting plus a half-dozen Limfjord oysters with mignonette.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday dinner only. Counter seats face the open kitchen; ask when booking.
Modern Nordic$$vesterbro
Restaurant Cofoco on Abel Cathrines Gade in Vesterbro has run a value-priced four-course Nordic tasting since 2004, the original room behind the CofocoGroup.
Signature: Four-course Nordic tasting, Daily fish
Order: The DKK 275 four-course menu; the kitchen rotates with the season.
Tip: Open daily from 17:30; one of the easier mid-priced bookings in the city.
Italian$$$norrebro
Christian Puglisi's Bæst on Guldbergsgade in Nørrebro pulls sourdough pizzas from a wood oven, cures its own charcuterie, makes mozzarella from Danish milk.
Signature: Sourdough pizza, House-cured charcuterie, Buffalo mozzarella
Order: The Margherita with house mozzarella, plus a plate of charcuterie from the in-house salumeria.
Tip: Reserve weekend evenings online. The 18:00 service is easier than the 20:00 turn.
Sicilian$$norrebro
Mirabelle Spiserìa on Guldbergsgade in Nørrebro reopened the former Mirabelle bakery as an all-day Sicilian eatery from Christian Puglisi and the Bæst team.
Signature: Sicilian small plates, Daily pasta, Natural wine selection
Order: The daily handmade pasta and a glass from the Sicilian-leaning natural wine list.
Tip: Walk-ins welcome at the counter; bookings via the website for groups of four or more.
Japanese ramen$$indre-by
Slurp Ramen on Nansensgade in Copenhagen makes noodles from Bornholm wheat and rye, with a tonkotsu and shoyu menu by Austrian chef Philipp Inreiter.
Signature: Tonkotsu ramen, Shoyu ramen, Daily gyoza
Order: The classic shoyu ramen with a side of gyoza; the noodles are made daily on site.
Tip: Walk-ins only and short queues outside; arrive at opening or after 20:00 for the shortest wait.