A guide to taiwanese restaurants worth a trip, by city. We list operators, signature dishes, and the rooms locals book first.

Taiwanese in London

Bao Soho ★ 4.5

Taiwanese££soho

Erchen Chang and Shing Tat Chung's original Bao counter on Lexington Street Soho in London, opened 2015, the bao that put Taiwanese food on every restaurant map in town.

Signature: Classic bao, Fried Horlicks ice cream

Order: Classic pork bao with peanut and fermented greens, plus the fried Horlicks ice cream to finish.

Tip: Walk-up only. Put your name down on the chalkboard outside; the queue moves in 20 to 40 minutes from open.

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Taiwanese in Los Angeles

Pine & Crane ★ 4.5

Taiwanese$$silver-lake

Vivian Ku's Pine and Crane in Silver Lake, Los Angeles serves Taiwanese family recipes at a counter and a dozen tables on Griffith Park Boulevard.

Order: Dan dan noodles and the three-cup chicken.

Tip: Counter service, fast turnover; this is the casual sibling of the more formal Joy in Highland Park.

Joy ★ 4.4

Taiwanese$$highland-park

Vivian Ku's Joy on York Boulevard, Highland Park, Los Angeles serves Taiwanese family-style on a covered patio. Sister room to Pine and Crane in Silver Lake.

Order: Beef noodle soup and the scallion pancakes.

Tip: Sister to Pine and Crane but takes bookings; ask the host for the back patio when you book.

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More cities are in research. Want taiwanese covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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