A guide to sichuan restaurants worth a trip, by city. We list operators, signature dishes, and the rooms locals book first.

Sichuan in New York City

Han Dynasty ★ 4.2

Sichuan$$east-village

Han Dynasty's East Village outpost runs Chengdu-style numbing-spicy Sichuan in New York City. The dan dan and the dry pot are the room's calibration plates.

Signature: Dan dan noodles, Dry pot fish

Order: Dan dan noodles, dry pot fish, cucumber salad to cool.

Tip: The spice scale runs 1 to 10; the menu says 7 is hot, the kitchen means it. Start at 5.

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Sichuan in San Francisco

Z & Y Restaurant ★ 4.4

Sichuan$$chinatown

Z & Y in San Francisco is the Chinatown Sichuan room that hosted Obama, with a benchmark dry-fried chicken and a real numbing-spice score on the page.

Signature: Chongqing chicken, Dan dan noodles, Mapo tofu

Order: Chongqing chicken: dry-fried with handfuls of Sichuan peppercorns and chillies.

Tip: Ask for the dan dan noodles 'house style' to get the version the kitchen makes for itself; off the menu.

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More cities are in research. Want sichuan covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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