Konoba Varos in Split's old fishermen quarter of Veli Varos serves classic Dalmatian comfort cooking, in a stone-walled room behind the Church of St Francis.
Signature dishes: Pasticada with gnocchi, Black risotto, Grilled squid
Must order: Pasticada with homemade gnocchi.
Tip: Open 09:00 to 24:00; weekday lunch is calmer than the August evening crush, and the seafood platters are sized for two.
Address: Ban Mladenova 9, 21000 Split, Croatia
Konoba Matejuska in Split's Veli Varos is a family-run room in a 19th-century UNESCO stone house, cooking the day's market catch over a wood fire.
Signature: Black cuttlefish risotto, Grilled daily catch, Octopus salad
Order: Black cuttlefish risotto with the chef's pour of Brac olive oil.
Tip: Cash preferred; the small terrace fills early in summer, so go for a 19:30 dinner or a late 21:30 sitting.
Sperun Eat and Drink just below Veli Varos in Split is a small-terrace konoba pouring local wine and grilling Adriatic fish daily, kept open through midnight.
Signature: Grilled sardines, Whole sea bass, Grilled squid
Order: Whole grilled squid with chard and potatoes.
Tip: Closed Mondays; book ahead for the terrace in July and August or arrive at 19:00 for a walk-up table.
Konoba Hvaranin on Ban Mladenova in Split's Veli Varos is a tight family-run room with the city's writers and journalists at the small tables.
Signature: Gregada Hvar-style, White risotto with mussels, Rozata caramel
Order: Gregada Hvar-style stew with rozata to finish.
Tip: Mon-Sat 15:00 to 23:00, closed Sundays; seating is limited, book the dinner sitting.
Konoba Marjan at the foot of the Marjan trail in Split serves classic Dalmatian dishes from a tiny kitchen in a centuries-old Veli Varos stone house.
Signature: Pasticada, Soparnik, Grilled fish platter
Order: Pasticada with gnocchi.
Tip: Cash and card both accepted; small terrace, book ahead in peak season.
Konoba Matejuska in Split's Veli Varos is a family-run room in a 19th-century UNESCO stone house, cooking the day's market catch over a wood fire.
Signature: Black cuttlefish risotto, Grilled daily catch, Octopus salad
Order: Black cuttlefish risotto with the chef's pour of Brac olive oil.
Tip: Cash preferred; the small terrace fills early in summer, so go for a 19:30 dinner or a late 21:30 sitting.
Sperun Eat and Drink just below Veli Varos in Split is a small-terrace konoba pouring local wine and grilling Adriatic fish daily, kept open through midnight.
Signature: Grilled sardines, Whole sea bass, Grilled squid
Order: Whole grilled squid with chard and potatoes.
Tip: Closed Mondays; book ahead for the terrace in July and August or arrive at 19:00 for a walk-up table.
Villa Spiza in Split's Diocletian Palace runs a handwritten daily board sourced from the morning Pazar, with around 14 cult-followed counter seats.
Signature: Daily handwritten board, Fish in gregada, Wild boar with gnocchi
Order: Whatever the handwritten board lists as the daily fish in gregada.
Tip: Walk-in only at 13:00 for the first sitting; the board changes daily and the small room rotates fast on the second turn.
Konoba Korta sits on a small Split palace courtyard in front of the Church of St Philip Neri, serving Dalmatian seafood and meats under ancient stone walls.
Signature: Squid with barley, Cuttlefish broad-bean pasta, Brudet
Order: Squid with barley and broad beans, finished with new olive oil.
Tip: Open daily through midnight; the cloistered courtyard tables are the ones to book in summer and shoulder season.
Konoba Hvaranin on Ban Mladenova in Split's Veli Varos is a tight family-run room with the city's writers and journalists at the small tables.
Signature: Gregada Hvar-style, White risotto with mussels, Rozata caramel
Order: Gregada Hvar-style stew with rozata to finish.
Tip: Mon-Sat 15:00 to 23:00, closed Sundays; seating is limited, book the dinner sitting.
Konoba Marjan at the foot of the Marjan trail in Split serves classic Dalmatian dishes from a tiny kitchen in a centuries-old Veli Varos stone house.
Signature: Pasticada, Soparnik, Grilled fish platter
Order: Pasticada with gnocchi.
Tip: Cash and card both accepted; small terrace, book ahead in peak season.
