Pao de queijo, Minas Gerais' tapioca and cheese roll, turns up on Sao Paulo tables from padaria counters to A Baianeira, where it opens the meal as a starter.
Pao de queijo began in 18th-century Minas Gerais, where cassava starch stood in for wheat flour that colonial farming could not reliably grow, and later took on cheese and eggs once dairy farming and Afro-Brazilian cooks combined the two staples after slavery ended. Made from polvilho, a cassava starch, rather than wheat flour, it is naturally free of gluten, a fact Sao Paulo bakeries now use to sell it beyond its Minas origins. It is not native to Sao Paulo and this guide makes no such claim, but the city adopted it wholesale: on breakfast counters and at A Baianeira, whose Minas-born chef opens the meal with a pao de queijo starter.
A Baianeira serves chef Manuelle Ferraz's Minas and Bahia borderland cooking two floors below MASP on Avenida Paulista, a sister to the Barra Funda room.
OrderThe pao de queijo starter and the baiao de dois with braised meat.
TipStart with the pao de queijo, a recipe the chef has cooked since she started out; daily specials run alongside the baiao de dois.
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