Dveri is a traditional bosnian restaurant in Bascarsija, Sarajevo.
Dveri off Saraci in Bascarsija is the family Bosnian room behind a wood-shuttered facade, with a flowered courtyard and hearty lonac on every table.
Signature dishes: Bosanski lonac, Klepe, Sogan-dolma, Grilled lamb
Must order: Bosanski lonac and klepe with garlic-yogurt sauce, paired with house bread.
Tip: Reservations are essential; Dveri is cash only and the rear courtyard tables are the ones to ask for in summer for warm-weather Sarajevo evenings.
Address: Prote Bakovica 12, 71000 Sarajevo
Nanina Kuhinja on Kundurdziluk in Sarajevo Bascarsija cooks Bosnian dishes the way a nana would, with klepe, sarma and bosanski lonac through the day.
Signature: Grandmother's bosanski lonac, Klepe, Sarma
Order: Bosanski lonac and klepe with kajmak and walnut.
Tip: The basement and front terrace fill from 20:00; ask for a balcony table and order whatever the daily lonac is on the chalkboard.
4 Sobe Gospodje Safije is the four-room villa on Cekalusa where modern Bosnian Sarajevo eats, across restored 1910 rooms and a flower garden.
Signature: Beef tartare, Bosnian tasting plates, Pasta
Order: Beef tartare with kajmak and the seasonal Bosnian tasting plates the kitchen sends.
Tip: Reserve the courtyard garden in summer; the wine list pours Herzegovinian Zilavka and Blatina by the glass alongside European bottles.
Kibe Mahala sits on a Vratnik hillside above Bascarsija, where spit-roasted lamb, sahan platters and Herzegovinian wine come with a panoramic view.
Signature: Spit-roasted lamb, Bosnian sahan, Veal jagnjetina
Order: Spit-roasted lamb by weight with potatoes and a half-litre of Blatina.
Tip: Take a taxi up; the hill is steep and the view tables fill quickly at sunset. Reserve the wraparound terrace for the best look across Sarajevo.
Park Princeva is the panoramic Sarajevo restaurant above Bascarsija that hosted Bono and Bill Clinton, working an elegant Bosnian menu with the best view.
Signature: Veal under sac, Bosnian sahan, Grilled trout
Order: Veal under sac with kajmak and a glass of Herzegovinian Zilavka.
Tip: Reserve a window or terrace table for sunset; the road up is narrow and a taxi from Bascarsija is the practical move.
Pivnica HS in Sarajevo is the Sarajevska Pivara taproom inside the 1864 brewery on Franjevacka, the only room pouring the brewery's unfiltered draught.
Signature: Unfiltered Sarajevsko Pivo, Veal platters, Roast pork knuckle
Order: Unfiltered Sarajevsko Pivo with the mixed grill platter for two.
Tip: Walk through to the brewery museum first, then sit in the back hall for the unfiltered light or dark; the kitchen does veal and sausage platters well.
Mala Kuhinja off Strosmajerova runs no printed menu in Sarajevo, asking each guest their likes and dislikes before cooking Bosnian-Mediterranean plates.
Signature: No-menu tasting, Open-kitchen fish, Seasonal pasta
Order: Whatever the kitchen sends; the open-fire fish is the house signature.
Tip: Reserve, arrive hungry, and trust the kitchen; tell the waiter your allergens up front and the chef builds from there with each plate.
Nanina Kuhinja on Kundurdziluk in Sarajevo Bascarsija cooks Bosnian dishes the way a nana would, with klepe, sarma and bosanski lonac through the day.
Signature: Grandmother's bosanski lonac, Klepe, Sarma
Order: Bosanski lonac and klepe with kajmak and walnut.
Tip: The basement and front terrace fill from 20:00; ask for a balcony table and order whatever the daily lonac is on the chalkboard.
