Kibe Mahala is a traditional bosnian restaurant in Vratnik, Sarajevo.
Kibe Mahala sits on a Vratnik hillside above Bascarsija, where spit-roasted lamb, sahan platters and Herzegovinian wine come with a panoramic view.
Signature dishes: Spit-roasted lamb, Bosnian sahan, Veal jagnjetina
Must order: Spit-roasted lamb by weight with potatoes and a half-litre of Blatina.
Tip: Take a taxi up; the hill is steep and the view tables fill quickly at sunset. Reserve the wraparound terrace for the best look across Sarajevo.
Address: Vrbanjusa 106, 71000 Sarajevo
Park Princeva is the panoramic Sarajevo restaurant above Bascarsija that hosted Bono and Bill Clinton, working an elegant Bosnian menu with the best view.
Signature: Veal under sac, Bosnian sahan, Grilled trout
Order: Veal under sac with kajmak and a glass of Herzegovinian Zilavka.
Tip: Reserve a window or terrace table for sunset; the road up is narrow and a taxi from Bascarsija is the practical move.
Park Princeva is the panoramic Sarajevo restaurant above Bascarsija that hosted Bono and Bill Clinton, working an elegant Bosnian menu with the best view.
Signature: Veal under sac, Bosnian sahan, Grilled trout
Order: Veal under sac with kajmak and a glass of Herzegovinian Zilavka.
Tip: Reserve a window or terrace table for sunset; the road up is narrow and a taxi from Bascarsija is the practical move.
Pivnica HS in Sarajevo is the Sarajevska Pivara taproom inside the 1864 brewery on Franjevacka, the only room pouring the brewery's unfiltered draught.
Signature: Unfiltered Sarajevsko Pivo, Veal platters, Roast pork knuckle
Order: Unfiltered Sarajevsko Pivo with the mixed grill platter for two.
Tip: Walk through to the brewery museum first, then sit in the back hall for the unfiltered light or dark; the kitchen does veal and sausage platters well.
Mala Kuhinja off Strosmajerova runs no printed menu in Sarajevo, asking each guest their likes and dislikes before cooking Bosnian-Mediterranean plates.
Signature: No-menu tasting, Open-kitchen fish, Seasonal pasta
Order: Whatever the kitchen sends; the open-fire fish is the house signature.
Tip: Reserve, arrive hungry, and trust the kitchen; tell the waiter your allergens up front and the chef builds from there with each plate.
Nanina Kuhinja on Kundurdziluk in Sarajevo Bascarsija cooks Bosnian dishes the way a nana would, with klepe, sarma and bosanski lonac through the day.
Signature: Grandmother's bosanski lonac, Klepe, Sarma
Order: Bosanski lonac and klepe with kajmak and walnut.
Tip: The basement and front terrace fill from 20:00; ask for a balcony table and order whatever the daily lonac is on the chalkboard.
Avlija is the Sarajevo courtyard institution off Mehmeda Spahe, with a vine-shaded garden and roast lamb under sac that locals book for any occasion.
Signature: Roast lamb under sac, Pljeskavica, Bosnian platters
Order: Roast lamb under sac, pljeskavica and a pitcher of homemade lemonade.
Tip: Book the courtyard for warm-weather dinners; closed Sundays, and the kitchen winds down around 22:30 most nights.
Sedef in Ilidza is the Sarajevo family room cooking the canonical sahan, bosanski lonac and colourful dolma at suburban prices for the Vrelo Bosne crowd.
Signature: Sarajevski sahan, Bosanski lonac, Dolma, Small cevapi
Order: Sarajevski sahan platter with five Bosnian dishes in one tray.
Tip: Take the tram to Ilidza, then walk; the outdoor alley tables are the ones to ask for, and the kitchen does whole roast lamb on order.
