Traditional Bosnian$$bascarsijaMon-Sun 08:00-23:00
Nanina Kuhinja on Kundurdziluk in Sarajevo Bascarsija cooks Bosnian dishes the way a nana would, with klepe, sarma and bosanski lonac through the day.
Signature: Grandmother's bosanski lonac, Klepe, Sarma
Order: Bosanski lonac and klepe with kajmak and walnut.
Tip: The basement and front terrace fill from 20:00; ask for a balcony table and order whatever the daily lonac is on the chalkboard.
Traditional Bosnian$$centarMon-Sat 08:00-23:00, closed Sun
Avlija is the Sarajevo courtyard institution off Mehmeda Spahe, with a vine-shaded garden and roast lamb under sac that locals book for any occasion.
Signature: Roast lamb under sac, Pljeskavica, Bosnian platters
Order: Roast lamb under sac, pljeskavica and a pitcher of homemade lemonade.
Tip: Book the courtyard for warm-weather dinners; closed Sundays, and the kitchen winds down around 22:30 most nights.
Traditional Bosnian$$ilidzaMon-Sun 09:00-23:00
Sedef in Ilidza is the Sarajevo family room cooking the canonical sahan, bosanski lonac and colourful dolma at suburban prices for the Vrelo Bosne crowd.
Signature: Sarajevski sahan, Bosanski lonac, Dolma, Small cevapi
Order: Sarajevski sahan platter with five Bosnian dishes in one tray.
Tip: Take the tram to Ilidza, then walk; the outdoor alley tables are the ones to ask for, and the kitchen does whole roast lamb on order.
International and Bosnian$$centarMon-Sun 09:00-23:00
Klopa in a passage off Ferhadija reads as Sarajevo's quiet daytime kitchen, working risotto, veggie burgers and pizza alongside a small Bosnian rotation.
Signature: Veggie burger, Risotto, Pasta, Pizza
Order: Veggie burger with sweet potato chips and a glass of Vranac.
Tip: Non-smoking and baby-friendly, with a small front terrace; arrive before 13:00 to claim it in the warmer Sarajevo months.
Italian and Brunch$$centarMon-Sat 10:00-23:00, closed Sun
Cakum Pakum on Kaptol is the Sarajevo trattoria-coded room near Markale with vintage interiors, hand-cut pasta and crepes for a long brunch sitting.
Signature: Sweet and savoury crepes, Homemade pasta, Salads
Order: Truffle pasta and a sweet Nutella crepe to finish.
Tip: Closed Sundays; lunch is the busy seating and Saturday brunch needs an early arrival to get a table on the small front terrace.
Bosnian and Italian$$bascarsijaMon-Sun 11:00-00:00
Barhana on a Djulagina dead-end is the Sarajevo Bascarsija mehana with the city's longest rakija shelf and a courtyard for warm-evening drinking.
Signature: Homemade rakija, Pasta and pizza, Bosnian platters
Order: Homemade quince dunja rakija and a plate of pasta with kajmak.
Tip: Order a rakija flight to start; the herbal travarica and quince dunja are the house pours and the kitchen does a good Bosnian-Italian crossover.