Modern Belgian€€€anderlecht
La Paix in Brussels has run since 1892 in a neo-classical building opposite the Anderlecht abattoir. David Martin took over the kitchen in 2004 and holds two Michelin stars with a Japanese-Belgian style.
Signature: Slow-cooked Belgian beef, Seasonal grill plate
Order: Whatever the menu calls the day's slow-cooked beef course; the kitchen is butcher's-row by lineage.
Tip: Closed Saturday and Sunday. Lunch only on Friday; the dining room runs Japanese-minimalist with origami above the tables.
Belgian brasserie€€€sablon
Au Vieux Saint Martin in Brussels has held the corner of Place du Grand Sablon since 1968. The Niels family invented Belgian filet americain here; the brasserie still serves it from the open kitchen.
Signature: Filet americain, Shrimp croquettes
Order: Filet americain prepared at the table, and shrimp croquettes to start.
Tip: Open every day from noon to midnight. The terrace looks straight at the Sablon church; book ahead for Sunday lunch.
Belgian brasserie€€sainte-catherine
Chez Leon in Brussels has run on Rue des Bouchers since 1893, when Leon Vanlancker opened five tables. Five generations later the family still serves moules-frites from the same kitchen.
Signature: Moules-frites, Carbonnade flamande
Order: Moules marinieres with frites, and a glass of gueuze from the beer list.
Tip: Open every day from noon to 23:00. Ask for the original 1893 dining room over the recent expansions on either side.
Belgian brasserie€€€sainte-catherine
Aux Armes de Bruxelles on Rue des Bouchers has been running since 1921, with Calixte Veulemans opening as a brasserie. Rudy Vanlancker of Chez Leon bought the house in 2018.
Signature: Waterzooi de poulet, Moules-frites
Order: Chicken waterzooi in the broth, with a Trappist beer or a glass of Sancerre.
Tip: Open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to 22:30, closed Monday. The salon at the back is quieter than the front dining room.
Belgian estaminet€€dansaert
In 't Spinnekopke in Brussels is an 18th-century estaminet on Place du Jardin aux Fleurs. The kitchen cooks Brussels-specific dishes, with lambic beer used as a sauce ingredient and a deep cellar list.
Signature: Rabbit in gueuze, Eels in green sauce
Order: Rabbit braised in gueuze, with bloempanch on the side and a Cantillon Geuze to drink.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The wooden banquettes are 1762 vintage; the cellar lambic list runs 30 bottles deep.
Belgian brasserie€€€sainte-catherine
Restaurant Vincent in Brussels has run on Rue des Dominicains since 1905, with Maurice Grimme's 1912 ceramic murals still on the walls. The kitchen still grills red meat over coal in front of guests.
Signature: Chateaubriand, Flambeed steak
Order: Chateaubriand flambeed at the table, with a side of pommes pailles.
Tip: Open seven days. The narrow row of side tables along the open grill is the seat to ask for at dinner service.
