Seafood€€sainte-catherine
Noordzee Mer du Nord on Rue Sainte-Catherine in Brussels is the standing-only seafood counter the city is built around. The kitchen runs fish soup, oysters and grilled langoustines to the steel bar all day.
Signature: Shrimp croquettes, Fish soup
Order: A bowl of fish soup, croquettes aux crevettes, and a glass of muscadet from the wine fridge.
Tip: No tables. Order at the counter, listen for your name, then carry the plate to a high-top across the street.
Belgian bistro€€€marolles
Les Brigittines in Brussels sits on Place de la Chapelle in the Marolles in an Art Nouveau dining room. The kitchen runs creative Belgian bistro built on local meats, with a deep cellar list.
Signature: Carbonnade flamande, Pied de cochon
Order: Carbonnade flamande with frites, or whichever offal cut is on the chalkboard menu that night.
Tip: Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. The terrace at the back is the quietest seat in summer.
Belgian bistronomie€€€ixelles
La Quincaillerie in Brussels' Ixelles sits in a 1903 former hardware shop on Rue du Page, with the original mezzanines and oak drawers preserved. The kitchen runs Belgian bistronomie with a long oyster bar.
Signature: Oysters by the dozen, Steak frites
Order: Six oysters from the bar and steak frites from the grill, with a bottle of Loire white.
Tip: Closed Sunday lunch. The upstairs mezzanine seats are the quietest; book a fortnight ahead for Friday or Saturday.
Belgian brasserie€€ixelles
Le Varietes in Ixelles sits on the ground floor of the Flagey Liner on Place Sainte-Croix. Brasserie-rotisserie cooking off a Belgian classics carte, with spit-roasted chicken running across lunch and dinner; weekend service is non-stop from noon.
Signature: Spit-roasted chicken, Belgian beef tartare
Order: Spit-roasted chicken with house jus and fries.
Tip: Kitchen runs lunch and dinner Mon-Fri, then non-stop noon to 22:00 Saturday and Sunday. Book a window seat for the Flagey square view.
Italian-Belgian€€€ixelles
Racines in Brussels' Ixelles is Francesco Cury and Ugo Federico's Italian-Belgian dining room on Chaussee d'Ixelles. The kitchen runs natural-wine pairings, pasta worked by hand, Bib Gourmand listed.
Signature: Hand-rolled pasta, Italian-Belgian tasting menu
Order: Whichever pasta course is on the chalkboard, with a glass of the house orange wine.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The bar seats give the open-kitchen view; lunch is the budget pick.
Modern Belgian€€€sainte-catherine
Le Selecto on Rue de Flandre runs a bistronomie carte in the Sainte-Catherine quarter. Bib Gourmand listed, modern Belgian cooking off a short seasonal card, with the bar counter and banquette doing equal trade.
Signature: Belgian beef tartare, Seasonal market plate
Order: The lunchtime two-course set; the kitchen leans on Belgian sourcing and the daily ardoise.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Friday and Saturday dinner runs through to 23:00; book a week ahead for weekend service.