Belgian brasserie€€sainte-catherine
Chez Leon in Brussels has run on Rue des Bouchers since 1893, when Leon Vanlancker opened five tables. Five generations later the family still serves moules-frites from the same kitchen.
Signature: Moules-frites, Carbonnade flamande
Order: Moules marinieres with frites, and a glass of gueuze from the beer list.
Tip: Open every day from noon to 23:00. Ask for the original 1893 dining room over the recent expansions on either side.
Belgian brasserie€€€sainte-catherine
Aux Armes de Bruxelles on Rue des Bouchers has been running since 1921, with Calixte Veulemans opening as a brasserie. Rudy Vanlancker of Chez Leon bought the house in 2018.
Signature: Waterzooi de poulet, Moules-frites
Order: Chicken waterzooi in the broth, with a Trappist beer or a glass of Sancerre.
Tip: Open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to 22:30, closed Monday. The salon at the back is quieter than the front dining room.
Belgian estaminet€€dansaert
In 't Spinnekopke in Brussels is an 18th-century estaminet on Place du Jardin aux Fleurs. The kitchen cooks Brussels-specific dishes, with lambic beer used as a sauce ingredient and a deep cellar list.
Signature: Rabbit in gueuze, Eels in green sauce
Order: Rabbit braised in gueuze, with bloempanch on the side and a Cantillon Geuze to drink.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The wooden banquettes are 1762 vintage; the cellar lambic list runs 30 bottles deep.
Belgian brasserie€€€sainte-catherine
Restaurant Vincent in Brussels has run on Rue des Dominicains since 1905, with Maurice Grimme's 1912 ceramic murals still on the walls. The kitchen still grills red meat over coal in front of guests.
Signature: Chateaubriand, Flambeed steak
Order: Chateaubriand flambeed at the table, with a side of pommes pailles.
Tip: Open seven days. The narrow row of side tables along the open grill is the seat to ask for at dinner service.
Seafood€€sainte-catherine
Noordzee Mer du Nord on Rue Sainte-Catherine in Brussels is the standing-only seafood counter the city is built around. The kitchen runs fish soup, oysters and grilled langoustines to the steel bar all day.
Signature: Shrimp croquettes, Fish soup
Order: A bowl of fish soup, croquettes aux crevettes, and a glass of muscadet from the wine fridge.
Tip: No tables. Order at the counter, listen for your name, then carry the plate to a high-top across the street.
Belgian bistro€€€marolles
Les Brigittines in Brussels sits on Place de la Chapelle in the Marolles in an Art Nouveau dining room. The kitchen runs creative Belgian bistro built on local meats, with a deep cellar list.
Signature: Carbonnade flamande, Pied de cochon
Order: Carbonnade flamande with frites, or whichever offal cut is on the chalkboard menu that night.
Tip: Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. The terrace at the back is the quietest seat in summer.