Belgian estaminet€€dansaert
In 't Spinnekopke in Brussels is an 18th-century estaminet on Place du Jardin aux Fleurs. The kitchen cooks Brussels-specific dishes, with lambic beer used as a sauce ingredient and a deep cellar list.
Signature: Rabbit in gueuze, Eels in green sauce
Order: Rabbit braised in gueuze, with bloempanch on the side and a Cantillon Geuze to drink.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The wooden banquettes are 1762 vintage; the cellar lambic list runs 30 bottles deep.
Belgian brasserie€€€sainte-catherine
Restaurant Vincent in Brussels has run on Rue des Dominicains since 1905, with Maurice Grimme's 1912 ceramic murals still on the walls. The kitchen still grills red meat over coal in front of guests.
Signature: Chateaubriand, Flambeed steak
Order: Chateaubriand flambeed at the table, with a side of pommes pailles.
Tip: Open seven days. The narrow row of side tables along the open grill is the seat to ask for at dinner service.
Seafood€€sainte-catherine
Noordzee Mer du Nord on Rue Sainte-Catherine in Brussels is the standing-only seafood counter the city is built around. The kitchen runs fish soup, oysters and grilled langoustines to the steel bar all day.
Signature: Shrimp croquettes, Fish soup
Order: A bowl of fish soup, croquettes aux crevettes, and a glass of muscadet from the wine fridge.
Tip: No tables. Order at the counter, listen for your name, then carry the plate to a high-top across the street.
Belgian bistro€€€marolles
Les Brigittines in Brussels sits on Place de la Chapelle in the Marolles in an Art Nouveau dining room. The kitchen runs creative Belgian bistro built on local meats, with a deep cellar list.
Signature: Carbonnade flamande, Pied de cochon
Order: Carbonnade flamande with frites, or whichever offal cut is on the chalkboard menu that night.
Tip: Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. The terrace at the back is the quietest seat in summer.
Belgian bistronomie€€€ixelles
La Quincaillerie in Brussels' Ixelles sits in a 1903 former hardware shop on Rue du Page, with the original mezzanines and oak drawers preserved. The kitchen runs Belgian bistronomie with a long oyster bar.
Signature: Oysters by the dozen, Steak frites
Order: Six oysters from the bar and steak frites from the grill, with a bottle of Loire white.
Tip: Closed Sunday lunch. The upstairs mezzanine seats are the quietest; book a fortnight ahead for Friday or Saturday.
Belgian brasserie€€ixelles
Le Varietes in Ixelles sits on the ground floor of the Flagey Liner on Place Sainte-Croix. Brasserie-rotisserie cooking off a Belgian classics carte, with spit-roasted chicken running across lunch and dinner; weekend service is non-stop from noon.
Signature: Spit-roasted chicken, Belgian beef tartare
Order: Spit-roasted chicken with house jus and fries.
Tip: Kitchen runs lunch and dinner Mon-Fri, then non-stop noon to 22:00 Saturday and Sunday. Book a window seat for the Flagey square view.