Italian cafe$$bondi
Casual sibling cafe of Icebergs Dining Room on Notts Avenue, Bondi Beach, Sydney. Italian small plates, Bondi pool view, walk-ins from morning.
Signature: Spaghetti vongole, Arancini, Tiramisu
Order: Spaghetti vongole and a glass of Etna Bianco.
Tip: Cafe operates separately from the dining room; bookings are for the upstairs room only.
French$$$cbd
French underground bistro on Bligh Street, Sydney CBD. Dark wood, low lighting, a long bar and a French menu of charcuterie, confit and grilled steak.
Signature: Steak tartare, Confit duck, Tarte tatin
Order: Steak tartare and the daily plat du jour.
Tip: The downstairs bar takes walk-ins; the dining room books out two weeks ahead.
Seafood$$bondi
Beach-side seafood diner above North Bondi's Ramsgate Avenue, Sydney. Fish and chips, oysters, salt-and-pepper squid, walk-in courtyard tables most days.
Signature: Fish and chips, Salt-and-pepper squid, Whole grilled snapper
Order: The fish and chips with North Bondi's chip-shop slaw.
Tip: No bookings; the upstairs terrace is the prize at sunset.
Thai$$$surry-hills
Modern Thai institution on Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. The caramelised pork hock has stayed on the menu for more than two decades.
Signature: Caramelised pork hock, Eggnet salad, Crispy fish salad
Order: Caramelised pork hock with five-spice and chilli.
Tip: Communal long-table seating; bookings recommended on weekends.
Japanese$$newtown
Japanese izakaya on King Street, Newtown, Sydney. Yakitori from binchotan, tonkotsu ramen, sake-and-highball list, late-night walk-in tables.
Signature: Yakitori skewers, Tonkotsu ramen, Karaage chicken
Order: Yakitori chef's selection and tonkotsu ramen.
Tip: Open till midnight Fridays and Saturdays.
Lebanese$$lakemba
Long-running Lebanese family-run restaurant on Haldon Street, Lakemba, Sydney. Mezze, mixed grills, halal-certified, generous family-style service.
Signature: Mixed grill, Hummus with lamb, Tabouleh
Order: Mixed grill platter for the table and the hummus.
Tip: Cash-friendly; the Ramadan late-night service is famous in Sydney.