Seafood$$bondiMon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00
Beach-side seafood diner above North Bondi's Ramsgate Avenue, Sydney. Fish and chips, oysters, salt-and-pepper squid, walk-in courtyard tables most days.
Signature: Fish and chips, Salt-and-pepper squid, Whole grilled snapper
Order: The fish and chips with North Bondi's chip-shop slaw.
Tip: No bookings; the upstairs terrace is the prize at sunset Walk-ins usually OK.
Japanese$$surry-hillsMon-Wed 17:30-22:00, Thu-Sat 17:30-23:30
Japanese izakaya on Waterloo Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. Yakitori from binchotan, tonkotsu ramen, sake-and-highball list, dinner Monday to Saturday.
Signature: Yakitori skewers, Tonkotsu ramen, Karaage chicken
Order: Yakitori chef's selection and tonkotsu ramen.
Tip: Dinner Monday to Saturday; book ahead for the weekend sittings.
Lebanese$$lakembaMon-Sun 08:30-21:30
Long-running Lebanese family-run restaurant on Haldon Street, Lakemba, Sydney. Mezze, mixed grills, halal-certified, generous family-style service.
Signature: Mixed grill, Hummus with lamb, Tabouleh
Order: Mixed grill platter for the table and the hummus.
Tip: Cash-friendly; the Ramadan late-night service is famous in Sydney.
Lebanese$granvilleSun 10:00-23:00
Sydney's canonical charcoal chicken shop on South Street, Granville. Whole chickens, garlic toum that defines the Sydney garlic-on-chicken canon.
Signature: Charcoal chicken, Garlic toum, Tabouleh
Order: Whole chicken, large toum, family-size chips.
Tip: Open late; takeaway queue moves faster than the dine-in line.
Italian$$$manlyMon-Sun 07:00-23:00
Italian neighbourhood room on Belgrave Street, Manly, Sydney. House-made pasta, Italian wood-fired pizza, the kind of beachside trattoria Manly was missing.
Signature: Pasta alla Norma, Wood-fired pizza, Tiramisu
Order: Pasta alla Norma and an Etna red.
Tip: Book ahead on summer weekends; the terrace is the trophy seat.
Italian$darlinghurstMon-Wed 12:00-22:30, Thu 12:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:30, Sun 12:00-22:30
Gelato Messina's Darlinghurst flagship on Victoria Street, Sydney. House-churned gelato, weekly special-flavour drops, walk-in friendly weeknights.
Signature: Salted caramel and white chocolate, Pannacotta with fig jam, Doughnut sandwich
Order: Two-scoop cup of salted caramel and pannacotta.
Tip: The doughnut sandwich is a hidden Messina menu item, ask at the counter.