Alcenia's in the Pinch District north of downtown Memphis runs Betty Joyce Chester-Tamayo's soul food and her famous door-greeting hug since 2002.
Why locals love it: Tourists rarely walk this far north of Beale; B.J.'s hug is what brings everyone back.
Tip: Counter service, cash preferred. Closed Sundays and Mondays. B.J. greets every diner.
Address: 317 N Main St, Memphis, TN 38103
The Four Way on Mississippi Boulevard in South Memphis is the city's defining Black-owned soul food room since 1946, where MLK ate but most tourists never go.
Why locals love it: South Memphis sits off the visitor track; the room rewards those who make the drive.
Tip: Lunch only Wednesday to Saturday. Save room for sweet potato pie.
Java Cabana on Young Avenue in Cooper-Young Memphis is the city's longest-running indie coffeehouse, with poetry slams, weddings on the patio and Elvis kitsch.
Why locals love it: Cooper-Young visitors mostly hit Beauty Shop and Soul Fish; Java Cabana stays a regulars' room.
Tip: Open until 22:00 most nights; check for spoken-word events on the back patio at weekends.
A&R Bar-B-Que on Elvis Presley Boulevard in South Memphis has run Black-owned hickory-smoke BBQ from a converted gas station since 1983, quiet on tourist maps.
Why locals love it: Tourists on the Elvis Presley Boulevard stretch head straight to Graceland gift shops; A&R is the BBQ counter that Memphis locals quietly defer to for ribs.
Tip: The smoked bologna sandwich is the under-radar order; pair it with mustard slaw on the side.
Mosa Asian Bistro on White Station Road in East Memphis runs a Chinese, Thai, Korean and Vietnamese menu favoured by Memphis chefs on their nights off.
Why locals love it: Sits in a strip mall with no signage to speak of; chefs send their friends here for pho.
Tip: Closed Mondays. The spicy Korean noodles are the standout; the room fills with regulars after 18:00.
The Cove on Broad Avenue in Memphis is a pirate-themed oyster bar with a wood pirate-ship bar and live music in the back, a Broad Avenue Arts District insider haunt.
Why locals love it: Off the Beale Street drag and tucked next to art galleries; the locals' weekend bar.
Tip: Oyster happy hour 17:00. Live music most weekends in the back room.
Sunrise Memphis on Jefferson Avenue downtown is a quick-service breakfast diner with Southern plates and a full bar, the locals' weekday morning room.
Why locals love it: Sits north of the Convention Center where tourists rarely walk; lines run 30 minutes past 09:00.
Tip: The breakfast Po' Boy is the dark-horse order; sit at the counter for the fastest service.
