The places in Memphis the guidebooks miss.
The places in Memphis the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.
Cozy Corner BBQ on North Parkway in the Pinch District in Memphis serves the city's most singular plate: hickory-smoked Cornish hens, idiosyncratic.
Why locals goTourists head to Rendezvous; locals and BBQ pilgrims drive to Cozy Corner for the Cornish hen.
TipTuesday to Saturday only. The bologna sandwich is the second order.
Alcenia's in the Pinch District north of downtown Memphis runs Betty Joyce Chester-Tamayo's soul food and her famous door-greeting hug since 2002.
Why locals goTourists rarely walk this far north of Beale; B.J.'s hug is what brings everyone back.
TipCounter service, cash preferred. Closed Sundays and Mondays. B.J. greets every diner.
The Four Way on Mississippi Boulevard in South Memphis is the city's defining Black-owned soul food room since 1946, where MLK ate but most tourists never go.
Why locals goSouth Memphis sits off the visitor track; the room rewards those who make the drive.
TipLunch only Wednesday to Saturday. Save room for sweet potato pie.
Java Cabana on Young Avenue in Cooper-Young Memphis is the city's longest-running indie coffeehouse, with poetry slams, weddings on the patio and Elvis.
Why locals goCooper-Young visitors mostly hit Beauty Shop and Soul Fish; Java Cabana stays a regulars' room.
TipOpen until 22:00 most nights; check for spoken-word events on the back patio at weekends.
A&R Bar-B-Que on Elvis Presley Boulevard in South Memphis has run Black-owned hickory-smoke BBQ from a converted gas station since 1983, quiet on tourist.
Why locals goTourists on the Elvis Presley Boulevard stretch head straight to Graceland gift shops; A&R is the BBQ counter that Memphis locals quietly defer to for ribs.
TipThe smoked bologna sandwich is the under-radar order; pair it with mustard slaw on the side.
Mosa Asian Bistro on White Station Road in East Memphis runs a Chinese, Thai, Korean and Vietnamese menu favoured by Memphis chefs on their nights off.
Why locals goSits in a strip mall with no signage to speak of; chefs send their friends here for pho.
TipClosed Mondays. The spicy Korean noodles are the standout; the room fills with regulars after 18:00.
The Cove on Broad Avenue in Memphis is a pirate-themed oyster bar with a wood pirate-ship bar and live music in the back, a Broad Avenue Arts District.
Why locals goOff the Beale Street drag and tucked next to art galleries; the locals' weekend bar.
TipOyster happy hour 17:00. Live music most weekends in the back room.
Sunrise Memphis on Jefferson Avenue downtown is a quick-service breakfast diner with Southern plates and a full bar, the locals' weekday morning room.
Why locals goSits north of the Convention Center where tourists rarely walk; lines run 30 minutes past 09:00.
TipThe biscuit sammies are the dark-horse order; sit at the counter for the fastest service.
Brother Juniper's near the University of Memphis runs the city's most-cherished breakfast from a tiny picket-fenced house on Walker, a locals' room.
Why locals goUniversity-area location well off the visitor trail; lines wrap the block by 09:00 at weekends but it stays a locals' room.
TipTuesday to Sunday breakfast only. Closes 13:00 weekdays, 12:30 Saturdays. Get there by 08:30.
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