Raymond Robinson's North Parkway Memphis BBQ joint has smoked Cornish hens, bologna and ribs over hickory in a one-room shack since 1977. Idiosyncratic, brilliant.
Signature dishes: Smoked Cornish hen, Bologna sandwich
Must order: Smoked Cornish hen with the slab.
Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays. Cash works best; the bologna sandwich is worth ordering even if you came for ribs.
Address: 735 N Pkwy, Memphis, TN 38105
Frank and Hazel Vernon's Madison Avenue Memphis BBQ room invented BBQ spaghetti and has run dry-rub and wet ribs from a wood-pit smoker since 1987.
Signature: BBQ spaghetti, Dancing Pigs ribs
Order: Half slab of dry ribs with a side of BBQ spaghetti.
Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays. The Dancing Pigs sauce ships nationally if you want to keep the meal going.
Payne's Lamar Avenue Memphis BBQ counter has run chopped pork sandwiches and mustard slaw out of a converted gas station since 1972. Locals' top chopped pork.
Signature: Chopped pork sandwich, Slaw with mustard
Order: Chopped pork sandwich, mustard slaw, fizzy red drink.
Tip: Lunch only, Tuesday to Saturday, 11:00 to 17:30. Cash preferred and the line moves fast.
The Memphis flagship of Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken on South Front Street downtown runs spicy crisp birds from a tin-roof shack, the chain's 2001 original.
Signature: Spicy fried chicken, Fried pickles
Order: Three-piece dark meat plate with fried pickles and slaw.
Tip: Counter service, no reservations. Lunch line moves; dinner can run an hour during weekends.
Soul Fish Cafe's Cooper-Young Memphis original on South Cooper runs fried Mississippi catfish, hush puppies and Gambino-bread po'boys daily.
Signature: Fried catfish, Po'boys
Order: Catfish basket with hush puppies and turnip greens.
Tip: Counter service. The shrimp po'boy is the second-best order; sit on the patio when it cools.
Itta Bena is a hidden upstairs Memphis dining room above B.B. King's on Beale Street, named for the Mississippi town King was born in. Southern, white tablecloths.
Signature: Shrimp and grits, Catfish
Order: Mississippi catfish with shrimp and grits.
Tip: Enter through the unmarked Second Street door or a private hall inside B.B. King's. Reservations open on OpenTable.
Char Restaurant in East Memphis on Highland Street runs USDA prime steaks, crab cakes and a piano bar in a polished modern Southern steakhouse format.
Signature: Prime steaks, Crab cakes
Order: Char's prime filet with the crab cake starter.
Tip: Saturday and Sunday brunch from 10:30; the piano bar starts at 18:30 most weekday nights.
