Memphis BBQ$$downtown
Charlie Vergos's basement Memphis BBQ room off Second Street has served charcoal-broiled dry-rub ribs since 1948. The signature rub is sold by the bag.
Signature: Charcoal-broiled dry-rub pork ribs, Cheese and sausage plate
Order: Full slab of ribs, dry, with the cheese and sausage plate and a pitcher.
Tip: Enter through the alley off Monroe; closed Sunday and Monday. They cook ribs over charcoal, not in a smoker; dry-rub purists call it grilled.
Memphis BBQ$$downtown
Central BBQ Downtown in Memphis runs the city's most reliable dry-rub ribs and pulled pork from a casual counter across from the National Civil Rights Museum.
Signature: Dry-rub pork ribs, Pulled pork sandwich
Order: Half slab of dry ribs with a smoked turkey sandwich on the side.
Tip: Lines from noon to 14:00; order online and pick up at the express counter to skip the queue.
Memphis BBQ$pinch-district
Raymond Robinson's North Parkway Memphis BBQ joint has smoked Cornish hens, bologna and ribs over hickory in a one-room shack since 1977. Idiosyncratic, brilliant.
Signature: Smoked Cornish hen, Bologna sandwich
Order: Smoked Cornish hen with the slab.
Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays. Cash works best; the bologna sandwich is worth ordering even if you came for ribs.
Memphis BBQ$$midtown
Frank and Hazel Vernon's Madison Avenue Memphis BBQ room invented BBQ spaghetti and has run dry-rub and wet ribs from a wood-pit smoker since 1987.
Signature: BBQ spaghetti, Dancing Pigs ribs
Order: Half slab of dry ribs with a side of BBQ spaghetti.
Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays. The Dancing Pigs sauce ships nationally if you want to keep the meal going.
Memphis BBQ$south-memphis
Payne's Lamar Avenue Memphis BBQ counter has run chopped pork sandwiches and mustard slaw out of a converted gas station since 1972. Locals' top chopped pork.
Signature: Chopped pork sandwich, Slaw with mustard
Order: Chopped pork sandwich, mustard slaw, fizzy red drink.
Tip: Lunch only, Tuesday to Saturday, 11:00 to 17:30. Cash preferred and the line moves fast.
Southern$downtown
The Memphis flagship of Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken on South Front Street downtown runs spicy crisp birds from a tin-roof shack, the chain's 2001 original.
Signature: Spicy fried chicken, Fried pickles
Order: Three-piece dark meat plate with fried pickles and slaw.
Tip: Counter service, no reservations. Lunch line moves; dinner can run an hour during weekends.