Bistros, trattorias and the everyday rooms where Los Angeles actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Los Angeles actually eats.
Jessica Koslow's Sqirl on Virgil Avenue, Los Angeles invented the ricotta toast format in 2012 and still draws a daily brunch line at the counter.
Order: Ricotta toast on Sqirl brioche with house jam.
Tip: Order at the counter, sit at a sidewalk picnic table; the queue is for groups, not solos.
Guisados in Boyle Heights, Los Angeles serves mini braised-meat tacos from a tortilleria a block away. Six locations across the city, this is the original.
Order: Sampler plate of six mini tacos with chicharron in salsa verde.
Tip: The original Boyle Heights branch is the strongest; salsas are made every morning. Closes by 21:00.
Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson's Kismet in Los Feliz, Los Angeles plates a vegetable-led California Mediterranean menu in a sunny corner room.
Order: Crispy turmeric chicken with sumac and freekeh.
Tip: Brunch on weekends from 09:00 takes walk-ins; dinner is a 30-day-out booking.
Tyler Wells and Ashley Wells's All Time in Los Feliz, Los Angeles runs a 30-seat neighbourhood room with the best brunch eggs in Eastside LA.
Order: Eggs benedict on the brunch menu, lemon-pepper chicken at dinner.
Tip: Brunch is walk-in only Saturday and Sunday from 09:00; dinner books two weeks out.
Vivian Ku's Pine and Crane in Silver Lake, Los Angeles serves Taiwanese family recipes at a counter and a dozen tables on Griffith Park Boulevard.
Order: Dan dan noodles and the three-cup chicken.
Tip: Counter service, fast turnover; this is the casual sibling of the more formal Joy in Highland Park.
Roy Choi's Kogi BBQ truck has rolled around Los Angeles since 2008, inventing the Korean-Mexican taco and the modern American food-truck movement.
Order: Short rib taco and the kimchi quesadilla.
Tip: Follow the truck's daily schedule on the website or Twitter; usually four stops a day across LA.
Vivian Ku's Joy on York Boulevard, Highland Park, Los Angeles serves Taiwanese family-style on a covered patio. Sister room to Pine and Crane in Silver Lake.
Order: Beef noodle soup and the scallion pancakes.
Tip: Sister to Pine and Crane but takes bookings; ask the host for the back patio when you book.
Broken Mouth - Lee's Homestyle in Downtown Los Angeles serves Korean-Hawaiian rice bowls and spam musubi at lunch from a single counter on Hill Street.
Order: Spam musubi and the kalbi rice bowl.
Tip: Lunch counter, downtown business district; closed Sundays. Cash and card both.
Burritos La Palma in East LA, Los Angeles wraps birria de res in handmade flour tortillas from Jerez, Zacatecas. James Beard finalist since 2018.
Order: Birria de res burrito wrapped in Zacatecas flour tortilla.
Tip: Open 09:00-17:00; the burritos sell out by 14:00 on weekends. Eat in the car.
Tito's Tacos in Culver City, Los Angeles has fried hard-shell beef tacos at the same walk-up window on Washington Place since 1959. Cash only.
Order: Hard-shell beef taco and a chile relleno burrito.
Tip: Cash only at the original walk-up window; the picnic tables are 1959 vintage.
Cofax Coffee Shop on Fairfax, Los Angeles updated the LA breakfast burrito with chorizo verde and house-fermented hot sauces. A reliable Mid-City stop.
Order: Chorizo verde breakfast burrito and a flat white.
Tip: Counter and patio only; queue at 09:30 weekends, walk-in fine weekdays.
Sun Nong Dan in Koreatown, Los Angeles serves seolleongtang ox-bone soup 24 hours a day and a cheese-topped galbi jjim that built a TikTok following.
Order: Galbi jjim braised short rib with cheese, finished tableside.
Tip: 24-hour, two-hour wait at 22:00 Friday; come at 23:30 instead, lines clear.
Tsujita LA in Sawtelle, Los Angeles is the LA outpost of Tokyo's Tsujita, simmering tonkotsu broth for 60 hours and serving it as ramen and tsukemen.
Order: Tonkotsu tsukemen at lunch only.
Tip: Tsukemen is served exclusively before 15:00; after 15:00 the menu switches to ramen and stays open until 02:00.
Matt Molina's Hippo in Highland Park, Los Angeles is a 50-seat Italian-California room serving handmade pastas from the Mozza alum since 2021.
Order: Mortadella and pickle, the focaccia, and any pasta on the chalkboard.
Tip: The chalkboard menu changes weekly; reservations only on OpenTable, four weeks out.
Chi Spacca on Melrose, Los Angeles is Nancy Silverton's Mozza-family Italian steakhouse, plating a bistecca for two and a focaccia di Recco worth a detour.
Order: Bistecca alla Fiorentina for two; the focaccia di Recco to start.
Tip: Walk-in counter seats serve the full menu; Nancy Silverton's bakery shares the building.
Quarters Korean BBQ in Chapman Plaza, Koreatown, serves marinated and unmarinated cuts in quarter-pound portions, encouraging diners to sample widely.
Order: A platter of marinated short rib, brisket and pork belly, plus a soju cocktail.
Tip: Quarter-pound portions let two people taste eight cuts; the staff manages the grill so you do not over-char the galbi.
Chosun Galbee on Olympic Boulevard has grilled charcoal galbi in Koreatown since 1989, in a large patio-and-hall room that seats up to 300 guests.
Order: Marinated kalbi short rib over hardwood charcoal and a portion of dwenjang jjigae.
Tip: Patio tables are the local order; ask for charcoal not gas, and book at least a week ahead on a weekend.
Soowon Galbi on Vermont Avenue, Koreatown, grills charcoal short rib galbi as the house specialty in a 2000s-era room beloved by Korean families.
Order: The charcoal galbi set with banchan and a pot of doenjang jjigae for the table.
Tip: Soowon uses real charcoal, not gas; arrive before 19:00 on weekends or expect a 60 minute wait.
Tacos Tu Madre on Westwood Boulevard near UCLA, Los Angeles, is a small walk-up window for tacos. Priced at $. Kitchen leans mexican-american.
Order: Carne asada fries piled with cheese, sour cream, guacamole and pico de gallo.
Tip: Order at the walk-up window; the line moves fast and the half-portion is a meal for one.
Eduardo's Border Grill on Westwood Boulevard, Los Angeles, has served carne asada fries, burritos and combo plates from a corner counter for decades.
Order: Carne asada fries and a steak burrito with house red salsa for the table.
Tip: This is a Westwood lunch counter; cash and card both fine, expect a queue around the UCLA lunch hour.
Cassell's Hamburgers inside the Hotel Normandie in Koreatown grinds its own chuck for griddled patties, a recipe in continuous use since 1948.
Order: The third-pound cheeseburger with grilled onions, plus a vanilla malt for the side.
Tip: Cassell's grinds beef in-house every morning; the breakfast burrito is the under-rated order from the same kitchen.
In-N-Out Burger on Sunset Boulevard, Hollywood, is the chain landmark closest to the Walk of Fame, with late-night drive-through service until 1:30.
Order: A Double-Double Animal Style with grilled onions and extra spread, plus fries well done.
Tip: Late-night Friday and Saturday closes at 1:30, the queue spills around the block by midnight.
In-N-Out Burger near LAX on Sepulveda sits at the end of runway 24R, making it the chain branch that doubles as a plane-spotting picnic spot.
Order: A Double-Double Animal Style and a chocolate shake to eat on the patio.
Tip: The patio is the move; aircraft pass directly overhead on approach to runway 24R every two minutes.