French bistro and wine shop$$$summerlin
Marche Bacchus in Las Vegas is Rhonda and Jeff Wyatt's lakeside French bistro since 2007, a wine-shop dining room on Lake Jacqueline with retail bottles drunk on-site for a small corkage.
Signature: Steak frites, Escargots, Lavender creme brulee
Order: Any of the 950 retail wine bottles brought to the table for a flat $10 corkage; pair with the steak frites.
Tip: Lakeside patio is reservations-required; ask for sunset 19:00 to 19:30 in winter and earlier in summer.
French haute cuisine$$$$the-strip
Joel Robuchon at MGM Grand is the late chef's only US restaurant, a three-Michelin-star French dining room and the only three-star kitchen in Las Vegas since opening in 2005.
Signature: La Pomme de Terre (mashed potato), Le Caviar, Tasting menu in 16 courses
Order: The full 16-course menu degustation; the chariot of bread alone runs a dozen varieties.
Tip: Tasting-menu only at dinner; lunch and the prix-fixe shorter menus run lower price points if 16 courses is too much.
French counter dining$$$$the-strip
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon at MGM Grand is the Strip's open-counter sibling to Robuchon's tasting room, watching the team plate from a 36-seat counter built around the kitchen.
Signature: Le Caviar with king crab, La Caille (quail with foie gras), La Pomme de Terre
Order: Counter seating with a small plates and discovery menu; le Caviar and la quail are the canon.
Tip: Counter walk-ins are sometimes accepted at 17:30 opening; the dining-room side takes reservations longer ahead.
Modern Cantonese$$$$the-strip
Mott 32 at the Venetian is the Hong Kong dim sum and Cantonese export, a brass-and-marble dining room with a 48-hour brined apple wood Peking duck and weekend dim sum.
Signature: Apple wood-roasted Peking duck, Iberico pork char siu, Hot and sour XO scallop dumplings
Order: The apple wood Peking duck (pre-order at booking, 48-hour cure) plus the Iberico pork char siu.
Tip: Weekend dim sum brunch runs Saturday and Sunday 11:00 to 16:00; cart-style service plus a la carte.
American steakhouse with Creole accents$$$$the-strip
Delmonico Steakhouse at the Venetian is Emeril Lagasse's Strip steakhouse since 1999, a long-running room with bone-in ribeyes and the chef's New Orleans barbecue shrimp.
Signature: Bone-in ribeye, Barbecue shrimp, Banana cream pie
Order: The 36oz bone-in ribeye for two with the barbecue shrimp as a starter; Emeril's New Orleans classic.
Tip: Weekday lunch runs the full steak menu at a lower spend; the dining room is much quieter than dinner service.
Italian$$$spring-mountain-chinatown
Ferraro's Italian in Las Vegas is the Ferraro family room since 1985, a long-running Paradise Road Italian dining room with one of the deepest wine cellars off the Strip.
Signature: Osso buco Milanese, Linguini with clams, Wine list of 1500 labels
Order: The osso buco Milanese with saffron risotto; on the menu since opening day.
Tip: The wine cellar holds 1,500 labels; the staff sommelier will route a pairing menu on request.