The Publican in Chicago is Paul Kahan's Fulton Market mead-hall, opened 2008, anchored by the heritage pork chop and a daily oyster list of 20 to 30 varieties.
Signature dishes: Heritage pork chop, Country ham, Oysters
Must order: Publican-style pork chop for the table, with one of the ham flights.
Tip: The walk-in counter at the bar is first-come, first-served and turns over fast. Aim for 17:30 if you cannot book.
Address: 837 W Fulton Market, Chicago, IL 60607
avec in Chicago is the cedar-walled Mediterranean wine bar next to Blackbird's old space, with the dates-wrapped-in-bacon plate that has run since 2003.
Signature: Chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates, Wood-oven flatbreads
Order: The chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates; on the menu since opening for good reason.
Tip: The communal seating means a walk-up at 17:00 usually beats waiting for a table. Bring a friend who likes elbows.
Monteverde in Chicago is Sarah Grueneberg's Italian dining room on Madison Street in the West Loop, a pasta-led menu with all the dough rolled in the open kitchen.
Signature: Cacio whey pepe, Handmade tortelloni
Order: The cacio whey pepe; the kitchen ferments its own pecorino whey for the sauce.
Tip: Sit at the pasta-counter seats if they're on offer. The kitchen rolls dough at eye level.
avec in Chicago is the cedar-walled Mediterranean wine bar next to Blackbird's old space, with the dates-wrapped-in-bacon plate that has run since 2003.
Signature: Chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates, Wood-oven flatbreads
Order: The chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates; on the menu since opening for good reason.
Tip: The communal seating means a walk-up at 17:00 usually beats waiting for a table. Bring a friend who likes elbows.
Lula Cafe in Chicago is Jason Hammel's 1999 Logan Square dining room and breakfast counter, anchored by a Monday farm-dinner menu the neighbourhood books out fast.
Signature: Farm dinner Monday, Pasta with brown butter
Order: Monday's farm dinner if you can book it; brown-butter pasta with sage on walk-in nights.
Tip: Brunch is walk-up only on weekends; aim for 09:30 to skip the worst of the queue.
Honey Butter Fried Chicken in Chicago is the Avondale counter from Christine Cikowski and Joshua Kulp, with the honey-butter biscuit that named the place.
Signature: Fried chicken with honey butter, Sides board
Order: Two-piece dark plate with the honey butter biscuit and the corn salad.
Tip: Order online from your phone before you walk in. The counter line is twice as long as the screen-pickup one most evenings.
Big Jones in Chicago is Paul Fehribach's Andersonville Southern kitchen on Clark Street, with shrimp-and-grits and buttermilk biscuits that anchor the brunch menu.
Signature: Buttermilk biscuit, Shrimp and grits, Fried chicken
Order: Buttermilk biscuit with sorghum butter, plus the shrimp and grits.
Tip: Sunday brunch tables go on the books two weeks out. The bar takes walk-ups if you arrive at 11:00.
Monteverde in Chicago is Sarah Grueneberg's Italian dining room on Madison Street in the West Loop, a pasta-led menu with all the dough rolled in the open kitchen.
Signature: Cacio whey pepe, Handmade tortelloni
Order: The cacio whey pepe; the kitchen ferments its own pecorino whey for the sauce.
Tip: Sit at the pasta-counter seats if they're on offer. The kitchen rolls dough at eye level.
Boka in Chicago is Lee Wolen's Michelin-starred dining room beside Alinea on Halsted, with a quiet garden courtyard and a roast-chicken-for-two worth the table.
Signature: Roasted chicken for two, Garganelli pasta
Order: The roasted chicken for two, brined two days; it leaves the kitchen carved.
Tip: Book the garden room in summer. It is one of the prettiest outdoor dining rooms in the city.
