Modern American$$$$west-loop
Smyth in Chicago is John and Karen Shields's two-Michelin-star tasting menu on Ada Street, with produce from their own farm 90 minutes south of the city.
Signature: Egg yolk in sea-buckthorn, Smoked sturgeon and caviar
Order: The yolk in sea-buckthorn vinegar; it has been on the menu since 2016 for a reason.
Tip: The companion bar downstairs, The Loyalist, runs an excellent burger if you can't land the upstairs seats.
Modern American$$$$west-loop
Oriole in Chicago is Noah Sandoval's two-Michelin-star room on Walnut Street in the West Loop, a quiet 28-seat tasting menu with a strong caviar service.
Signature: Hokkaido scallop with caviar, Quail with mole
Order: The opening caviar course; the kitchen treats it as the focal pivot, not a bookend.
Tip: The wine pairings are unusually well-judged at the German-and-Austrian end. Ask for them by region, not by tier.
Modern American$$$$west-loop
Ever in Chicago is Curtis Duffy's two-Michelin-star Fulton Market tasting menu, opened 2020 after Duffy left Grace, with rigorous service and quiet plating.
Signature: Foie gras with brioche, Wagyu with mushroom
Order: The foie gras course; it is the dish that follows Duffy across his career.
Tip: Sit at the chef's counter if it is on offer at booking. The view of the pass is the room's best seat.
Modern Scandinavian$$$west-loop
Elske in Chicago is David and Anna Posey's Danish-influenced Michelin-starred Randolph Street kitchen, a married chef-team plate with restraint and clean wood.
Signature: Duck-liver tart, Smoked beets with brown butter
Order: The duck-liver tart, an opening course that has stayed on the menu since 2016.
Tip: The Aquavit pairings are the room's secret weapon. Ask Anna for the by-the-glass walk.
American, pork-forward$$$west-loop
The Publican in Chicago is Paul Kahan's Fulton Market mead-hall, opened 2008, anchored by the heritage pork chop and a daily oyster list of 20 to 30 varieties.
Signature: Heritage pork chop, Country ham, Oysters
Order: Publican-style pork chop for the table, with one of the ham flights.
Tip: The walk-in counter at the bar is first-come, first-served and turns over fast. Aim for 17:30 if you cannot book.
Mediterranean$$$west-loop
avec in Chicago is the cedar-walled Mediterranean wine bar next to Blackbird's old space, with the dates-wrapped-in-bacon plate that has run since 2003.
Signature: Chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates, Wood-oven flatbreads
Order: The chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates; on the menu since opening for good reason.
Tip: The communal seating means a walk-up at 17:00 usually beats waiting for a table. Bring a friend who likes elbows.
Italian, handmade pasta$$$west-loop
Monteverde in Chicago is Sarah Grueneberg's Italian dining room on Madison Street in the West Loop, a pasta-led menu with all the dough rolled in the open kitchen.
Signature: Cacio whey pepe, Handmade tortelloni
Order: The cacio whey pepe; the kitchen ferments its own pecorino whey for the sauce.
Tip: Sit at the pasta-counter seats if they're on offer. The kitchen rolls dough at eye level.
American, wood-fire$$$west-loop
Girl & the Goat in Chicago is Stephanie Izard's Randolph Street wood-fire kitchen since 2010, with the pig face plate that came back when Bravo's Top Chef did.
Signature: Wood-fire pig face, Green beans with cashews
Order: The wood-fire pig face; the green beans with cashews and fish sauce vinaigrette.
Tip: If the dining room is fully booked, walk up to the bar at 17:00 for the same menu and no wait most weeknights.