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Modern AmericanWest Loop
Smyth in Chicago is John and Karen Shields's two-Michelin-star tasting menu on Ada Street, with produce from their own farm 90 minutes south of the city.
OrderThe yolk in sea-buckthorn vinegar; it has been on the menu since 2016 for a reason.
TipThe companion bar downstairs, The Loyalist, runs an excellent burger if you can't land the upstairs seats.
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Modern AmericanWest Loop
Oriole in Chicago is Noah Sandoval's two-Michelin-star room on Walnut Street in the West Loop, a quiet 28-seat tasting menu with a strong caviar service.
OrderThe opening caviar course; the kitchen treats it as the focal pivot, not a bookend.
TipThe wine pairings are unusually well-judged at the German-and-Austrian end. Ask for them by region, not by tier.
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Modern AmericanWest Loop
Ever in Chicago is Curtis Duffy's two-Michelin-star Fulton Market tasting menu, opened 2020 after Duffy left Grace, with rigorous service and quiet plating.
OrderThe foie gras course; it is the dish that follows Duffy across his career.
TipSit at the chef's counter if it is on offer at booking. The view of the pass is the room's best seat.
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Modern NordicWest Loop
Elske in Chicago is David and Anna Posey's Danish-influenced Michelin-starred Randolph Street kitchen, a married chef-team plate with restraint and clean.
OrderThe duck-liver tart, an opening course that has stayed on the menu since 2016.
TipThe Aquavit pairings are the room's secret weapon. Ask Anna for the by-the-glass walk.
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New AmericanWest Loop
The Publican in Chicago is Paul Kahan's Fulton Market mead-hall, opened 2008, anchored by the heritage pork chop and a daily oyster list of 20 to 30.
OrderPublican-style pork chop for the table, with one of the ham flights.
TipThe walk-in counter at the bar is first-come, first-served and turns over fast. Aim for 17:30 if you cannot book.
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MediterraneanWest Loop
avec in Chicago is the cedar-walled Mediterranean wine bar next to Blackbird's old space, with the dates-wrapped-in-bacon plate that has run since 2003.
OrderThe chorizo-stuffed bacon-wrapped dates; on the menu since opening for good reason.
TipThe communal seating means a walk-up at 17:00 usually beats waiting for a table. Bring a friend who likes elbows.
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ItalianWest Loop
Monteverde in Chicago is Sarah Grueneberg's Italian dining room on Madison Street in the West Loop, a pasta-led menu with all the dough rolled in the open.
OrderThe cacio whey pepe; the kitchen ferments its own pecorino whey for the sauce.
TipSit at the pasta-counter seats if they're on offer. The kitchen rolls dough at eye level.
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New AmericanWest Loop
Girl & the Goat in Chicago is Stephanie Izard's Randolph Street wood-fire kitchen since 2010, with the pig face plate that came back when Bravo's Top Chef.
OrderThe wood-fire pig face; the green beans with cashews and fish sauce vinaigrette.
TipIf the dining room is fully booked, walk up to the bar at 17:00 for the same menu and no wait most weeknights.