Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Chicago actually eats.

Where to eat well, no fuss

Lou Malnati's (Lincoln Park) ★ 4.4

Chicago Deep-dish Pizza$$lincoln-parkMon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-00:00; Sun 11:00-23:00

Lou Malnati's in Chicago is the Lincoln Park branch of the deep-dish chain founded 1971 by Lou (Rudy Malnati Sr.'s son), butter-crust pies with The Lou.

Signature: Chicago deep-dish pizza, The Lou (spinach, mushroom, tomato)

Order: The Lou with sausage, plus a small Malnati Salad first, with sweet vinaigrette.

Tip: Order the pizza when you sit; baking takes 45 minutes. Otherwise you wait twice.

Pequod's Pizza ★ 4.5

Pizzeria$$lincoln-parkMon-Sat 11:00-02:00; Sun 11:00-00:00

Pequod's Pizza in Chicago is the Lincoln Park pan-pizza institution on Clybourn since 1971, the caramelised cheese ring around the crust copied.

Signature: Caramelised-crust pan pizza, Sausage and mushroom

Order: Medium pan pizza, sausage and mushroom, with extra cheese around the rim.

Tip: Walk in at 16:30 to beat the queue; tables fill before the kitchen opens for dinner service.

Pizano's Pizza & Pasta ★ 4.2

Pizzeria$$the-loopDaily 11:00-23:00

Pizano's Pizza & Pasta in Chicago is the family-owned Loop deep-dish room founded in 1991 by Rudy Malnati Jr., son of Pizzeria Uno's original cook Rudy.

Signature: Cheese deep-dish, Thin pepperoni

Order: The cheese deep-dish, no toppings, the way Rudy Sr. baked it at Uno.

Tip: The Madison location is the original; State Street is the bigger pre-theatre spot.

Pizzeria Uno ★ 4.1

Pizzeria$$river-northSun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-00:00

Pizzeria Uno in Chicago is the original deep-dish pizza shop, opened by Ike Sewell on Ohio Street in 1943, where the city's pan-baked pizza was invented.

Signature: Numero Uno deep-dish, Sausage and pepperoni

Order: The Numero Uno, the canonical deep-dish from the original menu.

Tip: The pies bake 45 minutes; order on arrival. The nearby Due (Pizzeria Due) is the same kitchen if Uno is full.

Bonci Chicago ★ 4.3

Pizzeria$$west-loopMon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00

Bonci Chicago is Gabriele Bonci's West Loop pizza al taglio counter on Sangamon, the first US outpost of the Rome bakery, with rectangular pies cut by weight.

Signature: Pizza al taglio by weight, Mortadella and pistachio

Order: Mortadella and pistachio cream; potato and rosemary; whatever seasonal vegetable is current.

Tip: Walk up at 11:30 for the widest selection. By 14:00 the popular cuts are gone for the day.

Vito & Nick's Pizzeria ★ 4.4

Tavern-cut Thin Pizza$ashburnMon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-00:00; Sun 12:00-23:00

Vito & Nick's in Chicago is the Ashburn tavern serving the canonical tavern-cut thin pizza on South Pulaski since 1949, family-owned across four generations.

Signature: Original tavern-cut thin, Sausage and onion

Order: Large sausage tavern thin, party-cut, with a side of giardiniera.

Tip: Cash and the bar are the rhythm; first come first served. The kitchen closes at 22:00 sharp; arrive by 21:00.

Pat's Pizza & Ristorante ★ 4.2

Tavern-cut Thin Pizza$$lincoln-parkSun 13:00-22:00; Mon-Thu 16:30-22:00; Fri 16:30-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00

Pat's Pizza in Chicago is the Lincoln Park tavern-cut thin room on Lincoln Avenue since 1950, with the cracker-crust pies locals send out-of-town visitors.

Signature: Tavern-cut thin, Pat's Special with everything

Order: Medium Pat's Special, party-cut; the meatball sandwich as a backup.

Tip: Delivery is the locals' move. The dining room is small, the carryout window quick.

Portillo's Hot Dogs ★ 4.2

American$river-northDaily 10:00-01:00

Portillo's in Chicago is the Ontario Street flagship of the chain founded 1963 by Dick Portillo, with Chicago hot dogs, Italian beef and the chocolate cake.

Signature: Chicago hot dog, Italian beef sandwich, Chocolate cake shake

Order: A Chicago dog, an Italian beef dipped, a small chocolate cake shake.

Tip: Drive-thru is faster than the counter. The chocolate cake shake is a chocolate shake with a slice of chocolate cake blended into the cup.

Mr. Beef on Orleans ★ 4.4

Italian Beef$river-northMon-Sat 10:00-16:00; Sun closed

Mr. Beef on Orleans in Chicago is the no-frills Italian-beef counter that inspired The Bear, opened by Joe Zucchero in 1979, with a sandwich line out past.

Signature: Italian beef dipped, hot peppers, Italian sausage combo

Order: Italian beef, dipped, hot peppers. The combo if you want sausage on top.

Tip: Cash only and counter only. Closes by 16:30 on weekdays, earlier on weekends.

Al's Beef (Taylor Street) ★ 4.3

Italian Beef$little-italyMon-Fri 09:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun closed

Al's Beef on Taylor Street in Chicago is the original 1938 storefront opened by Al Ferreri, the Italian-beef sandwich on Gonnella bread that defined.

Signature: Italian beef dipped, Cheesy beef

Order: Italian beef, double-dipped, sweet peppers. A side of fries to mop the jus.

Tip: Eat standing at the counter with the lean-rail. The sandwich does not survive a sit-down booth structurally.

Johnnie's Beef ★ 4.6

Italian Beef$elmwood-parkMon-Sat 11:00-00:00; Sun 12:00-00:00

Johnnie's Beef in Elmwood Park is the suburban-edge Italian-beef counter on North Avenue since 1961, known for the combo (beef and sausage) and the Italian.

Signature: Italian beef combo, hot peppers, Italian lemonade

Order: Combo, dipped, hot peppers. Italian lemonade in the lemon-and-ice flavour, large.

Tip: Cash only. Two lines: one for sandwiches, one for Italian lemonade. They are not the same staff.

Superdawg Drive-In ★ 4.3

American diner$norwood-parkSun-Thu 11:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00

Superdawg in Chicago is the 1948 Norwood Park drive-in on Milwaukee Avenue, with car-hop service and a pair of giant Superdawg-and-Maurie figurines.

Signature: Superdawg with everything, Crinkle fries

Order: Superdawg with everything (mustard, relish, onion, sport peppers, pickle, fries inside the box).

Tip: Use the car-hop. It is the same price as the counter and the experience is the point.

The Wieners Circle ★ 4.2

American diner$lincoln-parkSun-Thu 11:00-02:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-04:00

The Wieners Circle in Chicago is the Lincoln Park late-night hot dog counter on Clark Street, open since 1983, famous for the staff-and-customer banter past.

Signature: Char dog, Chocolate milkshake

Order: Char dog with everything; cheese fries on the side. A chocolate milkshake to walk home.

Tip: The shouting is the show. If you are not up for the banter, the daytime queue is exactly the same dog without the audience.

Gene & Jude's ★ 4.5

American$river-groveMon-Thu 10:30-01:00; Fri-Sat 10:30-02:00; Sun 10:30-01:00

Gene & Jude's in River Grove is the 1946 hot-dog stand on River Road, west of Chicago: no ketchup, no tomato, no cheese, no chairs, just dogs.

Signature: Hot dog with everything (no tomato, no cheese)

Order: Double dog with the works (mustard, relish, onion.

Tip: Fries are tucked into the same paper as the dog. Eat them off the dog as you go, that is the point of the design.

Big Star ★ 4.3

Taqueria$$wicker-park-bucktownMon-Thu 11:30-22:00; Fri 11:30-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00

Big Star in Chicago is the One Off Hospitality taco room at Six Corners on Damen, with an outdoor patio, a frozen margarita machine and tacos al pastor.

Signature: Al pastor taco, Frozen margarita

Order: Three al pastor tacos, a frozen margarita, chips with the smoky tomato salsa.

Tip: The patio queue is long in summer. The walk-up window pays out a perfectly good takeaway dinner in five minutes.

La Chaparrita ★ 4.6

Mexican Taqueria$little-villageMon-Wed 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 11:00-20:00; Thu closed

La Chaparrita in Chicago is the Little Village taqueria off 26th Street with handmade-tortilla tacos from a small storefront counter, run by the Loera family.

Signature: Suadero taco, Tripa taco

Order: Suadero and tripa tacos, with a sip of agua de jamaica.

Tip: Cash only. The salsas at the counter are unmarked; ask which is the hottest and start there.

Hopleaf Bar ★ 4.4

Belgian$$andersonvilleSun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-00:00

Hopleaf in Chicago is the Andersonville Belgian beer bar on Clark since 1992, with moules frites, a 200-bottle Belgian list and the cashew-butter-and-fig.

Signature: Moules frites, Belgian beer flight, CB&J (cashew butter, fig jam)

Order: Moules frites with the Belgian-frites mayo. CB&J sandwich for the table.

Tip: The back dining room takes walk-ups only. Aim for 17:00 on Sunday to land it for dinner without waiting.

Calumet Fisheries ★ 4.5

American BBQ$east-sideSun-Wed 10:00-21:45; Thu 09:00-21:30; Fri-Sat 09:00-21:45

Calumet Fisheries in Chicago is the East Side smokehouse on the 95th Street bridge since 1948, with smoked chub, fried perch and shrimp wrapped in butcher.

Signature: Smoked chub, Fried lake perch

Order: Smoked chub by the piece and a fried perch fillet plate.

Tip: Cash only, no seating. Walk to the bridge and eat the chub on the railing watching the boats; that is the meal.

Greek Islands ★ 4.0

Greek$$greektownTue-Thu 11:00-21:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-21:30, Sun 11:00-21:00

Greek Islands in Chicago is the Greektown standard on South Halsted since 1971, with the flaming saganaki tableside-presentation that the neighbourhood made.

Signature: Saganaki (flaming cheese), Lamb on the spit, Gyros

Order: Saganaki (Opa!), lamb on the spit, gyros plate to share.

Tip: Sunday lunch with the family is the room's natural use. Book a long table and a bottle of Boutari.

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