Sichuan Chinese$$$canton
NiHao on Boston Street in Canton is chef Peter Chang's Baltimore room, plating Peking duck, dim sum and dumplings in a busy waterfront rowhouse.
Signature: Peking duck, Dim sum, Dumplings
Order: The Peking duck and a spread of dumplings and dim sum.
Tip: Weekend dim sum brunch is the move; reserve, because the rowhouse seats fill fast.
New American$$$hampden
The Food Market anchors Hampden's Avenue, where chef Chad Gauss turns out playful New American plates and his well-known Amish soft pretzels.
Signature: Amish soft pretzels, Crispy oysters, New American plates
Order: The Amish soft pretzels to start, then whatever seafood is running that night.
Tip: Brunch on The Avenue is busy; reserve, and ask for a booth away from the open door.
Eastern European$$$fells-point
Little Donna's in Upper Fells Point is Robbie Tutlewski's Eastern European kitchen, on the New York Times best list for its pierogies and tavern pie.
Signature: Pierogies, Tavern pie, Shrimp toast
Order: The pierogies and the tavern pie, with a side of tomato hot honey for dipping.
Tip: It is small and reservations vanish fast; the bar seats are walk-in and worth the wait.
Thai$$fells-point
The Dara in Fells Point is chef Jeff Wannapithipat's Thai room, drawing crowds for khao soi and Hatyai-style fried chicken on South Wolfe Street.
Signature: Khao soi, Hatyai fried chicken, Curries
Order: The khao soi and the Hatyai fried chicken.
Tip: Much of the menu is gluten-free; ask the kitchen to flag the dishes that are not.
Chesapeake$$$hampden
True Chesapeake Oyster Co. in Whitehall Mill is chef Zack Mills's bay-to-table room, serving its own Jerome Creek oysters and a jumbo lump crab cake.
Signature: Jerome Creek oysters, Jumbo lump crab cake, Raw bar
Order: A dozen Jerome Creek oysters and the jumbo lump crab cake.
Tip: The oysters come from the restaurant's own farm; ask the bar which harvest is freshest that day.
French bistro$$$roland-park
Petit Louis Bistro in Roland Park is Foreman Wolf's Parisian-style bistro, plating a duck-fat roasted chicken and trout amandine on a Left Bank corner.
Signature: Whole roasted chicken, Trout amandine, Steak frites
Order: The whole roasted chicken polished with duck fat.
Tip: Weekday lunch is the under-the-radar bargain; the prix fixe is the value play.