Thai$$fells-point
The Dara in Fells Point is chef Jeff Wannapithipat's Thai room, drawing crowds for khao soi and Hatyai-style fried chicken on South Wolfe Street.
Signature: Khao soi, Hatyai fried chicken, Curries
Order: The khao soi and the Hatyai fried chicken.
Tip: Much of the menu is gluten-free; ask the kitchen to flag the dishes that are not.
Chesapeake$$$hampden
True Chesapeake Oyster Co. in Whitehall Mill is chef Zack Mills's bay-to-table room, serving its own Jerome Creek oysters and a jumbo lump crab cake.
Signature: Jerome Creek oysters, Jumbo lump crab cake, Raw bar
Order: A dozen Jerome Creek oysters and the jumbo lump crab cake.
Tip: The oysters come from the restaurant's own farm; ask the bar which harvest is freshest that day.
French bistro$$$roland-park
Petit Louis Bistro in Roland Park is Foreman Wolf's Parisian-style bistro, plating a duck-fat roasted chicken and trout amandine on a Left Bank corner.
Signature: Whole roasted chicken, Trout amandine, Steak frites
Order: The whole roasted chicken polished with duck fat.
Tip: Weekday lunch is the under-the-radar bargain; the prix fixe is the value play.
Mediterranean$$$little-italy
Costiera in Little Italy marks chef Brian Lavin's return, a coastal Mediterranean bistro plating swordfish meatballs over house-milled polenta.
Signature: Swordfish meatballs, House-milled polenta, Coastal Italian plates
Order: The swordfish meatballs over house-milled polenta.
Tip: It sits where Little Italy meets Harbor East; the patio is the seat to ask for in warm weather.
Contemporary American$$$fells-point
Peter's Inn in Fells Point is a former biker bar turned chef's favourite, with a weekly-changing menu around a famous garlic bread and a New York strip.
Signature: Garlic bread, New York strip, Weekly-changing menu
Order: The garlic bread is non-negotiable; the strip steak is the menu anchor.
Tip: It does not take reservations and the room is tiny; arrive early or expect a wait at the bar.
Contemporary pub$$$fells-point
The Wren in Fells Point is the contemporary pub from Le Comptoir du Vin's team, on the New York Times best list for nettle soup and bar-side cassoulet.
Signature: Nettle soup, Cassoulet, Pub plates
Order: The nettle soup and the cassoulet finished at the bar.
Tip: It is from the Comptoir du Vin owners and just as small; reserve, or take a stool at the bar.