Wine bar£££hackneyMon-Sat 17:00-23:30
Liam Kelleher's natural-wine room on Lower Clapton Road in Hackney London, opened 2014, runs a wall-of-wine shop by day and an evening counter.
Signature pour: Whatever Italian skin-contact white is on by the glass
Wine focus: Natural wine, all-region with strong Italian and French focus
Food: Small plates from a rotating chef-in-residence
Tip: Walk-up only. Tuesday-Thursday at 17:30 is the easy slot; Friday-Saturday queue 30 minutes for a counter seat.
Wine bar£££hackneyTue-Sun 17:00-23:30
Michael Sager and Charlotte Wilde's bar on Hackney Road in east London, opened 2013, ran the bridge between London's old wine-bar scene and the natural-wine.
Signature pour: Whatever German Riesling is on by the glass
Wine focus: International natural and low-intervention wines
Food: Small plates and a famous grilled cheese sandwich
Tip: The grilled cheese sandwich is the marquee bar snack. Wednesday and Thursday nights run a £25 menu pairing.
Wine bar£££peckhamWed-Sun 17:30-23:00
Bash Redford's wine bar atop the Peckham multistorey carpark in south London, opened 2018, runs Italian-leaning natural wines and small plates with a rooftop.
Signature pour: Whatever Italian skin-contact orange wine is on
Wine focus: Italian growers and natural-leaning
Food: Italian small plates
Tip: Walk-up only. Tuesday-Thursday from 17:30 walks in; Friday-Saturday queue runs to 90 minutes for the rooftop seats.
Wine bar£££fitzroviaMon-Sat 12:00-23:00
Daniel Keeling and Mark Andrew's wine-magazine-meets-bistro on Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury London, opened 2015, runs serious old-world wines.
Signature pour: Whatever mature Burgundy is open by the glass
Wine focus: Burgundy, Loire and serious old-world classics
Food: Modern European dining-room menu
Tip: Lunchtime three-course is £45 with a glass. The Greek Street Soho sibling has longer hours and the same list.
Wine bar£££clerkenwellMon-Sat 12:00-22:00
Will Lander's wine shop and bar next to Quality Chop House on Farringdon Road in Clerkenwell London, opened 2019, runs a focused natural-leaning Continental.
Signature pour: Whatever grower Champagne is on by the glass
Wine focus: European natural wines and grower Champagnes
Food: Sandwiches and small plates from the Quality Chop House team
Tip: Buy a bottle and drink it in the bar for £15 corkage. The lunch sandwich menu from Quality Chop House is half-price.
Wine bar£££kenningtonTue-Sun 17:00-23:00
Sunny Hodge's neighbourhood wine bar on Brixton Road in Kennington London, opened 2017, runs a serious natural-wine list and Mediterranean snacks at counter.
Signature pour: Whatever Spanish skin-contact white is on
Wine focus: Natural wines from small European growers
Food: Mediterranean small plates
Tip: Walk-up only Tue-Thu. Friday-Saturday books two weeks ahead. The wine focus is on growers Hodge knows personally.
Wine bar£££islingtonWed-Sun 17:00-23:00
Mike Garrett and Bryan Connell's natural-wine bar on Blackstock Road in Highbury London, opened 2019, runs a small-plates kitchen and a wine club delivery.
Signature pour: Whatever German Pinot Noir is on
Wine focus: Natural and biodynamic wines from independents
Food: Small plates and Sunday roast
Tip: Sunday roast at £25 books a week ahead through Resy. The wine subscription delivers six independent bottles a month.
Wine bar£££borough-bermondseyWed-Sat 12:00-23:00
Gergovie Wines's importer-run wine bar and kitchen inside a Maltby Street railway arch in Bermondsey London, opened 2010, the home address of London.
Signature pour: Whatever Loire chenin blanc is open
Wine focus: Natural wines from Gergovie Wines
Food: Daily-changing kitchen chalkboard
Tip: Open Wed-Sat only. Walk-up at the counter from 12:00. Closed Sun-Tue; the Saturday market crowd from 10:00 anchors the day.
Wine bar£££DalstonMon-Thu 17:00-00:00, Fri-Sat 17:00-01:30, Sun 16:00-00:00
Amit and Aneesh Patel's vinyl-and-natural-wine bar on Kingsland Road in Dalston London, opened 2013, runs a casual Japanese kitchen, Klipschorn speakers.
Signature pour: Whatever Jura or Loire red is on by the glass
Wine focus: Natural and low-intervention from European growers
Food: Casual Japanese small plates
Tip: The downstairs hi-fi room books a week ahead; bar counter takes walk-ins. The kitchen runs late on Friday and Saturday.