sohoDaily 12:00-22:00
Erchen Chang and Shing Tat Chung's Taiwanese bao counter on Lexington Street in Soho London, opened 2015, runs the classic pork bao that defined the British bao moment.
Try: Taiwanese steamed bao
Tip: Walk-up only at the counter; queue 30-60 minutes on weekend nights. £6 per bao; pair with peanut-milk shaved ice for dessert.
boroughMon-Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-21:00
Padella's hand-rolled pasta counter at Borough Market in London, opened 2016 by Tim Siadatan and Jordan Frieda, the budget-priced (£8-15) fresh pasta destination for the city.
Try: Hand-rolled fresh pasta
Tip: Use the Padella app for the virtual queue at 12:00 sharp; otherwise 60 minutes on Saturday. The Shoreditch sibling has same kitchen.
boroughWed-Fri 11:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-17:00
Kappacasein's grilled cheese counter inside Borough Market in London, trading since 2002, runs the city's most-photographed cheese toastie made from Montgomery cheddar and Ogleshield.
Try: Aged cheddar grilled cheese
Tip: Counter only. The 09:00 Saturday queue runs 45 minutes. Order the raclette plate if the cheese toastie line is too long.
brixton-tootingMon-Sun 11:30-22:00
Giuseppe Mascoli's first sourdough-pizza counter inside Brixton Village in London, opened 2008, runs slow-fermented Neapolitan pies at counter prices (£6-9 per pie).
Try: Sourdough Neapolitan pizza
Tip: Walk-up only at the Brixton original. The wood-fired oven runs 6 to 8 minutes per pie; queues move fast.
shoreditchMon-Fri 08:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-23:00
Dishoom's bacon naan roll counter on Boundary Street in Shoreditch London, served from breakfast service since 2012, the morning Bombay-cafe sandwich that built the chain.
Try: Bacon naan roll
Tip: Walk-in only for the breakfast rolls before 10:00. £6.50 a roll; chai £3. Faster than the dinner queue all week.
camden-primrose-hillDaily 12:00-22:30
Mathew Carver's all-cheese counter inside Camden Stables Market in London, opened 2017, runs British cheese-led plates from a small kitchen including the trolley raclette night.
Try: Grilled cheese
Tip: Walk-up at the counter for grilled cheese; the £30 tasting menu at the back runs full evenings only with a booking.