Nicholas Balfe's small-plates room on Blenheim Grove in Peckham London, opened 2018 and Michelin-recognised, runs Modern European cooking with a long natural-wine list.
Signature dishes: Smoked eel and beetroot, Sourdough Yorkshire pudding
Must order: Smoked eel with beetroot and creme fraiche, plus whatever's on the wood-fired grill.
Tip: The room is small and bookings book a fortnight ahead; bar seats are released for walk-ins from 18:00.
Address: 12-16 Blenheim Grove, London SE15 4QL
Britain's oldest restaurant on Maiden Lane in Covent Garden London, opened 1798 by Thomas Rule, runs an estate-game-led menu through grouse, partridge and venison seasons.
Signature: Game pie, Steak and kidney pudding
Order: Game pie in season, then steamed steak and kidney pudding with mash.
Tip: Lunch is a third of dinner's price and just as well-staffed. The upstairs cocktail bar runs to 23:00 most nights.
The Caprice Holdings seafood institution on St Martin's Court in Covent Garden London, opened 1896, runs a pre-theatre fish-focused menu with the oyster bar next door.
Signature: Fish pie, Dover sole
Order: Sheekey's fish pie and a half-dozen native oysters from the oyster bar list.
Tip: The Oyster Bar at no. 28-32 takes walk-ins at the bar; the main dining room books two weeks ahead for evening service.
Chris Corbin and Jeremy King's grand European brasserie on Piccadilly in London, opened 2003 in a former 1921 Wolseley showroom, runs from breakfast to late-night supper.
Signature: Eggs Benedict, Wiener schnitzel
Order: Eggs Benedict and a flat white at breakfast, or the Wiener schnitzel and a glass of riesling at dinner.
Tip: Breakfast from 07:00 is the un-touristed slot. Pre-theatre dinner from 18:00 books a fortnight ahead.
The Bombay-cafe-styled Indian dining room on Boundary Street in Shoreditch London, opened 2012 as Dishoom's second site, runs Parsi cafe cooking from breakfast to late.
Signature: Bacon naan roll, House black daal
Order: Bacon naan roll at breakfast and house black daal at dinner. Chai on the side.
Tip: No bookings for weekend lunch; expect a 45-minute queue on Saturday. Weekday breakfast from 08:00 walks straight in without waiting.
The Tayyab family's Punjabi grill on Fieldgate Street in Whitechapel London, opened 1972, runs charcoal-grilled lamb chops, karahi and seekh kebab in a roaring open kitchen.
Signature: Lamb chops, Karahi gosht
Order: A starter plate of lamb chops, karahi gosht and tandoori roti to mop up.
Tip: BYOB. Friday and Saturday queues run to 60 minutes; aim for a Tuesday or Wednesday at 19:00.
The wine-led dining room on Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury London, opened 2015 by Daniel Keeling and Mark Andrew of the wine magazine, runs a serious Modern European menu.
Signature: Slip sole grilled in seaweed butter, Whole roast quail
Order: Slip sole in seaweed butter, plus a glass of mature white Burgundy off their by-the-glass list.
Tip: Lunchtime three-course is a third of dinner's price. The Soho sibling on Greek Street has the same kitchen with longer hours.
