What to order at Levan

Must order
Smoked eel with beetroot and creme fraiche, plus whatever's on the wood-fired grill.
Signature dishes
Smoked eel and beetroot, Sourdough Yorkshire pudding
Editor tip
The room is small and bookings book a fortnight ahead; bar seats are released for walk-ins from 18:00.
CuisineModern European
Price£££
Neighborhoodpeckham
Last verified

Signature dishes: Smoked eel and beetroot, Sourdough Yorkshire pudding

Must order: Smoked eel with beetroot and creme fraiche, plus whatever's on the wood-fired grill.

Tip: The room is small and bookings book a fortnight ahead; bar seats are released for walk-ins from 18:00.

Location

Address: 12-16 Blenheim Grove, London SE15 4QL

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Rules ★ 4.0

British gastropub£££covent-gardenMon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:30, Sun 12:00-22:00

Britain's oldest restaurant on Maiden Lane in Covent Garden London, opened 1798 by Thomas Rule, runs an estate-game-led menu through grouse.

Signature: Game pie, Steak and kidney pudding

Order: Game pie in season, then steamed steak and kidney pudding with mash.

Tip: Lunch is a third of dinner's price and just as well-staffed. The upstairs cocktail bar runs to 23:00 most nights.

J Sheekey ★ 4.1

Seafood£££covent-gardenMon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

The Caprice Holdings seafood institution on St Martin's Court in Covent Garden London, opened 1896, runs a pre-theatre fish-focused menu with the oyster bar.

Signature: Fish pie, Dover sole

Order: Sheekey's fish pie and a half-dozen native oysters from the oyster bar list.

Tip: The Oyster Bar at no. 28-32 takes walk-ins at the bar; the main dining room books two weeks ahead for evening service.

The Wolseley ★ 4.1

Brasserie£££mayfairMon-Fri 07:00-23:00, Sat 08:00-23:00, Sun 08:00-22:00

Chris Corbin and Jeremy King's grand European brasserie on Piccadilly in London, opened 2003 in a former 1921 Wolseley showroom, runs from breakfast.

Signature: Eggs Benedict, Wiener schnitzel

Order: Eggs Benedict and a flat white at breakfast, or the Wiener schnitzel and a glass of riesling at dinner.

Tip: Breakfast from 07:00 is the un-touristed slot. Pre-theatre dinner from 18:00 books a fortnight ahead.

Dishoom Shoreditch ★ 4.1

Indian££shoreditchMon-Wed 08:00-23:00, Thu-Fri 08:00-00:00, Sat 09:00-00:00, Sun 09:00-23:00

The Bombay-cafe-styled Indian dining room on Boundary Street in Shoreditch London, opened 2012 as Dishoom's second site, runs Parsi cafe cooking.

Signature: Bacon naan roll, House black daal

Order: Bacon naan roll at breakfast and house black daal at dinner. Chai on the side.

Tip: No bookings for weekend lunch; expect a 45-minute queue on Saturday. Weekday breakfast from 08:00 walks straight in without waiting.

Tayyabs ★ 4.0

Pakistani££whitechapelDaily 12:00-23:30

The Tayyab family's Punjabi grill on Fieldgate Street in Whitechapel London, opened 1972, runs charcoal-grilled lamb chops, karahi and seekh kebab.

Signature: Lamb chops, Karahi gosht

Order: A starter plate of lamb chops, karahi gosht and tandoori roti to mop up.

Tip: BYOB. Friday and Saturday queues run to 60 minutes; aim for a Tuesday or Wednesday at 19:00.

Noble Rot ★ 4.3

Modern European£££fitzroviaMon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun closed

The wine-led dining room on Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury London, opened 2015 by Daniel Keeling and Mark Andrew of the wine magazine, runs a serious.

Signature: Slip sole grilled in seaweed butter, Whole roast quail

Order: Slip sole in seaweed butter, plus a glass of mature white Burgundy off their by-the-glass list.

Tip: Lunchtime three-course is a third of dinner's price. The Soho sibling on Greek Street has the same kitchen with longer hours.

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