Pakistani££whitechapelDaily 12:00-23:30
The Tayyab family's Punjabi grill on Fieldgate Street in Whitechapel London, opened 1972, runs charcoal-grilled lamb chops, karahi and seekh kebab.
Signature: Lamb chops, Karahi gosht
Order: A starter plate of lamb chops, karahi gosht and tandoori roti to mop up.
Tip: BYOB. Friday and Saturday queues run to 60 minutes; aim for a Tuesday or Wednesday at 19:00.
Modern European£££fitzroviaMon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun closed
The wine-led dining room on Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury London, opened 2015 by Daniel Keeling and Mark Andrew of the wine magazine, runs a serious.
Signature: Slip sole grilled in seaweed butter, Whole roast quail
Order: Slip sole in seaweed butter, plus a glass of mature white Burgundy off their by-the-glass list.
Tip: Lunchtime three-course is a third of dinner's price. The Soho sibling on Greek Street has the same kitchen with longer hours.
Modern British£££clerkenwellMon closed, Tue-Fri 12:00-14:15 and 18:00-21:45, Sat 12:00-14:30 and 18:00-21:45, Sun 12:00-15:30
The 1869 Farringdon Road working-class dining room in Clerkenwell London, restored under Will Lander since 2012, runs daily-changing British cooking.
Signature: Confit potato, Mince and potatoes
Order: The famed confit potato, then mince and potatoes off the daily menu, with a bottle from the shop next door.
Tip: The wine shop next door is corkage-free if you buy a bottle there. Lunch takes walk-ins at the counter Tue-Sat.
Modern British£££clerkenwellMon-Sat 12:00-15:00 and 18:00-22:30, Sun closed
Fergus Henderson's St John in Clerkenwell has cooked the nose-to-tail British canon in London since 1994. Priced at £££. Kitchen leans modern british.
Signature: Roast bone marrow and parsley salad, Eccles cake with Lancashire cheese
Order: Roast bone marrow with parsley salad and toast, then Eccles cake with Lancashire.
Tip: The bakery counter near the front sells the same Eccles cakes, doughnuts and brown loaf to take away if you can't get a booking.
Basque Grill£££shoreditchMon closed, Tue-Sun 12:00-22:30
Tomos Parry's Basque-fired wood-grill room above the Smoking Goat in Shoreditch London, opened 2018 and the whole-turbot benchmark for the city.
Signature: Whole grilled turbot, Smoked potatoes
Order: Whole turbot for two off the wood, with smoked potatoes and grilled lettuce.
Tip: Bookings open thirty days ahead at 10:00 and burn fast. Walk-up bar seats are released on the day from 11:00.
Modern British£££shoreditchMon-Tue closed, Wed-Sat 18:00-22:00, Sun closed
Taz Sarhane's one-Michelin-starred tasting-menu room inside the Blue Mountain School in Shoreditch London, opened 2022, runs a 90% British menu cooked.
Signature: Whole roasted fish over open fire, Foraged-herb tasting course
Order: Whatever Cornish day-boat fish is cooked over flame, and the foraged-herb course that anchors the tasting.
Tip: One tasting menu per service; book six weeks ahead. The wine pairing leans natural and biodynamic UK growers.