Spanish£££mayfair
Nieves Barragan Mohacho's Mayfair Spanish dining room off Regent Street in London, opened 2017 and Michelin-starred, runs a tapas counter downstairs and a wood-fired upstairs.
Signature: Suckling pig, Pulpo a la gallega
Order: Pulpo a la gallega at the counter and the suckling pig upstairs at El Asador.
Tip: Counter seats downstairs take walk-ins. Upstairs has a six-week booking lead time but a fixed-price suckling pig set menu.
Spanish tapas££borough-bermondsey
Jose Pizarro's standing-only tapas bar on Bermondsey Street in London, opened 2011, a Spanish counter that runs Cantabrian anchovies, jamon and croquetas from morning to late.
Signature: Iberico jamon, Croquetas
Order: A plate of Iberico ham, the croquetas and the daily fish specials at the counter.
Tip: No bookings; squeeze in standing at the bar from 18:00 onwards. Lunch from 12:00 is walk-in friendly all week.
Italian£££shoreditch
Chris Leach and David Carter's whole-animal Italian dining room on Curtain Road in Shoreditch London, opened 2021, charcuteries pork in-house and rolls pasta to order.
Signature: Pig's head fritti, Cacio e pepe rigatoni
Order: Pig's head fritti, cacio e pepe rigatoni and a glass from the all-Italian wine list.
Tip: Bar seats and the counter overlooking the open kitchen take walk-ins. Tables book a month ahead through Resy.
Italian£££clerkenwell
The Clove Club team's neighbourhood Italian on St John Street in Clerkenwell London, opened 2016, runs British-Italian seasonal cooking in a tiled dining room and bar.
Signature: Parmesan fries, Tagliolini al limone
Order: Parmesan fries with truffle mayo, tagliolini al limone and a Negroni from the bar.
Tip: Sit at the bar for the four-course tasting menu at half the dining-room price. Lunch books at three days, dinner at three weeks.
Turkish ocakbasi££stoke-newington
Lee Tiernan's ocakbasi-influenced Turkish-British flatbread room near Canonbury station in London, opened 2015, runs the city's loudest dining room and an offal-forward charcoal grill.
Signature: Lamb offal flatbread, Lahmacun
Order: Lamb offal flatbread and kissed-cod lahmacun, soundtracked by whatever Iron Maiden record is spinning.
Tip: First-come, first-served from 18:00. Closed Sunday and Monday. Cash and card; no booking, no compromise.
Modern European£££peckham
Nicholas Balfe's small-plates room on Blenheim Grove in Peckham London, opened 2018 and Michelin-recognised, runs Modern European cooking with a long natural-wine list.
Signature: Smoked eel and beetroot, Sourdough Yorkshire pudding
Order: Smoked eel with beetroot and creme fraiche, plus whatever's on the wood-fired grill.
Tip: The room is small and bookings book a fortnight ahead; bar seats are released for walk-ins from 18:00.