Italian£££clerkenwellMon-Wed 12:00-22:00, Thu-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun closed
The Clove Club team's neighbourhood Italian on St John Street in Clerkenwell London, opened 2016, runs British-Italian seasonal cooking in a tiled dining.
Signature: Parmesan fries, Tagliolini al limone
Order: Parmesan fries with truffle mayo, tagliolini al limone and a Negroni from the bar.
Tip: Sit at the bar for the four-course tasting menu at half the dining-room price. Lunch books at three days, dinner at three weeks.
Palestinian££notting-hill-bayswaterMon closed, Tue-Thu 12:00-15:00 and 18:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-15:00 and 18:00-23:30, Sat 11:00-15:00 and 18:00-23:30, Sun 11:00-16:00
Fadi Kattan's Palestinian dining room on Uxbridge Street in Notting Hill London, opened 2022, spreads across four floors and runs traditional Palestinian.
Signature: Lamb shoulder mansaf, Crispy rice and lamb parcels
Order: Whatever lamb-shoulder course is on, and a glass of arak to open.
Tip: Ground-floor counter takes walk-ins for mezze. Tables upstairs book a fortnight ahead. Brunch service runs Saturday and Sunday.
Modern European£££peckham
Nicholas Balfe's small-plates room on Blenheim Grove in Peckham London, opened 2018 and Michelin-recognised, runs Modern European cooking with a long.
Signature: Smoked eel and beetroot, Sourdough Yorkshire pudding
Order: Smoked eel with beetroot and creme fraiche, plus whatever's on the wood-fired grill.
Tip: The room is small and bookings book a fortnight ahead; bar seats are released for walk-ins from 18:00.
British gastropub£££covent-gardenMon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:30, Sun 12:00-22:00
Britain's oldest restaurant on Maiden Lane in Covent Garden London, opened 1798 by Thomas Rule, runs an estate-game-led menu through grouse.
Signature: Game pie, Steak and kidney pudding
Order: Game pie in season, then steamed steak and kidney pudding with mash.
Tip: Lunch is a third of dinner's price and just as well-staffed. The upstairs cocktail bar runs to 23:00 most nights.
Seafood£££covent-gardenMon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00
The Caprice Holdings seafood institution on St Martin's Court in Covent Garden London, opened 1896, runs a pre-theatre fish-focused menu with the oyster bar.
Signature: Fish pie, Dover sole
Order: Sheekey's fish pie and a half-dozen native oysters from the oyster bar list.
Tip: The Oyster Bar at no. 28-32 takes walk-ins at the bar; the main dining room books two weeks ahead for evening service.
Brasserie£££mayfairMon-Fri 07:00-23:00, Sat 08:00-23:00, Sun 08:00-22:00
Chris Corbin and Jeremy King's grand European brasserie on Piccadilly in London, opened 2003 in a former 1921 Wolseley showroom, runs from breakfast.
Signature: Eggs Benedict, Wiener schnitzel
Order: Eggs Benedict and a flat white at breakfast, or the Wiener schnitzel and a glass of riesling at dinner.
Tip: Breakfast from 07:00 is the un-touristed slot. Pre-theatre dinner from 18:00 books a fortnight ahead.