Chef John Williams£170mayfairBook 8 weeks ahead
The Ritz Piccadilly dining room in Mayfair London, opened 1906 in Cesar Ritz's hotel, holds one Michelin star and runs classical French cooking. Jacket and tie required.
Order: Sole Veronique or the Beef Wellington carved tableside, with the cheese trolley to close.
Tip: Afternoon tea in the Palm Court is the easier reservation; dinner books 8 weeks ahead with strict dress code.
Chef Pierre Gagnaire£245mayfairBook 8 weeks ahead
Mourad Mazouz and Pierre Gagnaire's Conduit Street dining rooms in Mayfair London, opened 2002, hold three Michelin stars in the Lecture Room and run a famed pink Gallery cafe.
Order: The Pierre Gagnaire signature plate in the Lecture Room, or afternoon tea in the pink Gallery.
Tip: The Gallery serves the bistro menu and books a fortnight ahead; the three-starred Lecture Room is the eight-week wait.
Chef James Knappett£260fitzroviaBook 12 weeks ahead
James Knappett's twenty-seat tasting-counter dining room on Charlotte Street in Fitzrovia London, opened 2012, holds two Michelin stars and runs a daily-changing fifteen-course menu.
Order: Whatever the Cornish raw fish opener is, and the savoury cheese course that closes the run.
Tip: The counter wraps the kitchen; sit at the centre seat for chef interaction. Wine pairings are exceptional and add £160.
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Chef Ollie Dabbous£170mayfairBook 6 weeks ahead
Ollie Dabbous's Piccadilly dining room overlooking Green Park in Mayfair London, opened 2018 and Michelin-starred, runs a Modern British menu across three floors.
Order: Whatever sea-buckthorn course is on, and the warm cheese tart that has stayed on the menu since opening.
Tip: The ground-floor Below cocktail bar takes walk-ins and serves the same kitchen as a la carte plates.
Chef Jeremy Chan£300covent-gardenBook 8 weeks ahead
Jeremy Chan and Iremae Adeyeri's West African-influenced tasting room on the Strand in London, opened 2017 and Michelin two-starred, on the World's 50 Best list.
Order: Plantain with raspberry-scotch-bonnet salt, the dish that has stayed on the menu since opening.
Tip: Counter seats look directly at the pass; book the corner for two and watch every plate go out.
Chef Ashley Palmer-Watts£185south-kensington-chelseaBook 6 weeks ahead
Heston Blumenthal's historical-British research kitchen inside the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in London, opened 2011 and Michelin two-starred, plates dishes from 1300 to 1850.
Order: The Meat Fruit (chicken liver mousse in a mandarin-orange shell), unchanged from 2011.
Tip: Lunch a la carte at £55 for two courses is half dinner. Sit at the open kitchen counter to watch the mousse-shaping.