James Knappett's twenty-seat tasting-counter dining room on Charlotte Street in Fitzrovia London, opened 2012, holds two Michelin stars and runs a daily-changing fifteen-course menu.
Must order: Whatever the Cornish raw fish opener is, and the savoury cheese course that closes the run.
Tip: The counter wraps the kitchen; sit at the centre seat for chef interaction. Wine pairings are exceptional and add £160.
Address: 70 Charlotte Street, London W1T 4QG
Ollie Dabbous's Piccadilly dining room overlooking Green Park in Mayfair London, opened 2018 and Michelin-starred, runs a Modern British menu across three floors.
Order: Whatever sea-buckthorn course is on, and the warm cheese tart that has stayed on the menu since opening.
Tip: The ground-floor Below cocktail bar takes walk-ins and serves the same kitchen as a la carte plates.
Jeremy Chan and Iremae Adeyeri's West African-influenced tasting room on the Strand in London, opened 2017 and Michelin two-starred, on the World's 50 Best list.
Order: Plantain with raspberry-scotch-bonnet salt, the dish that has stayed on the menu since opening.
Tip: Counter seats look directly at the pass; book the corner for two and watch every plate go out.
Heston Blumenthal's historical-British research kitchen inside the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in London, opened 2011 and Michelin two-starred, plates dishes from 1300 to 1850.
Order: The Meat Fruit (chicken liver mousse in a mandarin-orange shell), unchanged from 2011.
Tip: Lunch a la carte at £55 for two courses is half dinner. Sit at the open kitchen counter to watch the mousse-shaping.
Helene Darroze's three-Michelin-starred dining room inside The Connaught hotel in Mayfair London, opened 2008, runs ingredient-led French-British cooking with a long wine list.
Order: Cep risotto in autumn, or the langoustine course at any time of year.
Tip: Lunch (Tue-Sat) at £75 for three courses is the most accessible route. The Connaught Bar next door is one of the world's great cocktail rooms.
Claude Bosi's two-Michelin-starred dining room on the first floor of the 1911 Michelin Building in Chelsea London, opened 2017, runs ingredient-driven French cooking.
Order: Cornish turbot with Champagne sauce, or the wood pigeon with foie gras.
Tip: Sit by the iconic stained-glass Michelin Man windows. Lunch is half the dinner price and just as well-staffed.
Marcus Wareing's one-Michelin-starred dining room inside The Berkeley hotel in Knightsbridge London, opened 2014, runs a seasonal British tasting menu across six courses.
Order: Whatever Scottish lobster preparation is on, and the chocolate pudding for two to close.
Tip: Pre-theatre at 17:30 to 18:30 runs a £75 three-course; the kitchen is the same as later sittings.
