Eton mess
Photo: Acabashi · CC BY-SA 4.0

Whipped cream folded with crushed meringue and macerated strawberries until ragged. The British summer pudding: assembled in 5 minutes, eaten before the meringue softens.

Eton mess first appeared in print in 1893 as the dessert served at the annual Eton vs Harrow cricket match, then a major fixture of the London Season. The original 1930s version used strawberries or bananas with ice cream or cream; the meringue addition came later in the 1950s. London's clubs and Wimbledon kept the dish alive as a quintessential summer dessert, and modern London restaurants from Rules to Spring serve seasonal versions through June and July when British strawberries (Cambridge Favourite, Wimbledon Favourite, Hapil) are at peak.

6 editor picks for Eton mess in London, ranked by editorial score. All London signature dishes · Eton mess across every city.

St John ★ 4.8

£££Modern BritishClerkenwell

Fergus Henderson's St John in Clerkenwell has cooked the nose-to-tail British canon in London since 1994. Priced at £££. Kitchen leans modern british.

OrderRoast bone marrow with parsley salad and toast, then Eccles cake with Lancashire.

TipThe bakery counter near the front sells the same Eccles cakes, doughnuts and brown loaf to take away if you can't get a booking.

Sketch ★ 4.7

££££French bistroMayfair

Mourad Mazouz and Pierre Gagnaire's Conduit Street dining rooms in Mayfair London, opened 2002, hold three Michelin stars in the Lecture Room and run a famed.

OrderThe Pierre Gagnaire signature plate in the Lecture Room, or afternoon tea in the pink Gallery.

TipThe Gallery serves the bistro menu and books a fortnight ahead; the three-starred Lecture Room is the eight-week wait.

Spring ★ 4.3

£££Modern EuropeanCovent Garden

Skye Gyngell's Modern European dining room inside the New Wing of Somerset House in central London, opened 2014, runs vegetable-led seasonal cooking.

OrderWhatever the spring or autumn vegetable opener is, and the brown butter custard tart for pudding.

TipThe Scratch dinner uses kitchen offcuts to fight food waste and costs £25; the regular menu runs £55 for two courses.

The Wolseley ★ 4.1

£££BrasserieMayfair

Chris Corbin and Jeremy King's grand European brasserie on Piccadilly in London, opened 2003 in a former 1921 Wolseley showroom, runs from breakfast.

OrderEggs Benedict and a flat white at breakfast, or the Wiener schnitzel and a glass of riesling at dinner.

TipBreakfast from 07:00 is the un-touristed slot. Pre-theatre dinner from 18:00 books a fortnight ahead.

The Ritz ★ 4.1

££££French fine diningMayfair

The Ritz Piccadilly dining room in Mayfair London, opened 1906 in Cesar Ritz's hotel, holds one Michelin star and runs classical French cooking.

OrderSole Veronique or the Beef Wellington carved tableside, with the cheese trolley to close.

TipAfternoon tea in the Palm Court is the easier reservation; dinner books 8 weeks ahead with strict dress code.

Rules ★ 4.0

£££British gastropubCovent Garden

Britain's oldest restaurant on Maiden Lane in Covent Garden London, opened 1798 by Thomas Rule, runs an estate-game-led menu through grouse.

OrderGame pie in season, then steamed steak and kidney pudding with mash.

TipLunch is a third of dinner's price and just as well-staffed. The upstairs cocktail bar runs to 23:00 most nights.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Eton mess makes more sense with someone from London explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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